Re: oil pan gasket
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Home away from home
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I dropped mine on my 36 120, and I used the cork version from max Merritt. I think its $20 so I wasn't going to mess around with something else.
I put the front-end of my car on a set of steel lawnmower ramps, that gave me a lot of room to crawl under and work on it. On the 36 you have to drop the steer linkage, so I assume that its the same on a 39.
Posted on: 2014/5/12 17:01
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I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you
Bad company corrupts good character! Farming: the art of losing money while working 100 hours a week to feed people who think you are trying to kill them |
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Re: oil pan gasket
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Not too shy to talk
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Hi,
My 1938 120 has used sealant for decades, though I prefer to also use a cork gasket. To remove sump try turning steering towards full lock, it is a fiddle but works with mine. If doing a full oil change/clean-out consider 'Caltex Delo 400' oil for mixed diesel/petrol fleets. For decades on mine the exhaust valves tended to stick open, this with Delo 400 is now very rarely the case. Also see DrewLA in yesterday's forum on oils. Happy motoring.
Posted on: 2014/5/12 17:21
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Re: oil pan gasket
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Home away from home
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David, recommend using a cork gasket. Adhere the gasket to the pan and lightly rub a coat of grease the on the side facing the block. This will serve two purposes: 1) allow the gasket to slide on the block when installing the pan; and 2) will allow the gasket to stay on the pan when next the pan is removed, permitting easier removal. Only a small amount of adhesive is needed to cement the gasket to the pan. The problem with too much sealant is that it squeezes out and can get into the internals of the engine. This method is also recommended by O_D.
(o{}o)
Posted on: 2014/5/14 22:17
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We move toward
And make happen What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer) |
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