Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi Cyber Friends,

I am getting closer to receiving the engine and transmission back...then the install.

Can you all please give me some advice on the engine break in procedure?

My plan is to:

1. Fill the carb floats using the existing external electric pump so it is ready to go.

2. Use the starter to turn the engine over (with the spark plugs out) for a while to pump up the oil and get oil pressure to read on the gauge.

3. Twist about 1.5 turns on the carburetor idle adjustment to get the idle setting up so that the engine will run at a high idle (how fast should it idle?).

4. Run a fan in front of the radiator to help keep it cool for the initial break in.

5. After the initial high idle run for the first 20 minutes return the idle to normal.

6. Whatever else you all suggest...

Is there any after start up adjustments needed to the lifters?

I am REALLY considering lifting the body off of the chassis "ala Ross" and mounting the engine and transmission on the bare chassis and connecting the radiator up on the bare chassis and rigging up the fuel to a remote gas can and hot wire the coil and the starter and run the engine on the bare chassis.

Any experience on this???

Greatly appreciate all of your help/suggestions.

Bill

Bill, I would ask who ever it this that rebuilt your engine what he says would be best. I would guess he would know best and if there would be anything to void your warranty.
After that just make sure you retorque the head nuts a couple times.
Wes

I had just a couple of minutes before I left for work to look under my dad's Packard to investigate if the body off approach would be do-able as a better means to re-install the engine and transmission.

This seems to be the "easy" way to install the engine and adjust the clutch and rear transmission mount. If I can run the engine on the bare chassis it would be helpful to look for leaks and such as well as if the valves need to be readjusted after it gets hot that would be an easier (whistling) experience.

I do have a two post lift so the wood 4X4 under the rocker panels might be the approach. I did determine the following with respect to lifting the body off of the chassis:

1. The rear bumper will need to be removed because there is a sheet metal filler piece that is attached to the body that slips under the bumper. Minor PITA.

2. The front bumper has a similar filler piece under the bumper however it looks like I can leave the front bumper bolted to the front clip but simply unbolt the bumper bracket from the frame....no big deal.


3. There are front inner fender well bolts that will need to be removed. It looks like there are three one each side. Also some kind of vertical rod (left side and right side) with a nut and washer that attaches to the frame that will need to unscrew the nut..this is also no big deal.

4. The gas pedal and clutch pedal levers appear to have a filler piece that goes around them that covers up a large square hole and I did not have time to investigate the inside of the dash to see how difficult it would be to remove this piece. If it is easy to unbolt then the pedals will drop out of the bottom.

5. There are about ten body to chassis bolts that need to be removed. Since the interior is in the car the questions is how tough is it to remove the interior trim and carpet and access these bolts from inside the car and the trunk...this looks to be the most onerous part of the de-mating project.

As always...any suggestions and advice would be most appreciated...

Bill

You can just leave the motor on fast idle and don't have to diddle with the idle screw.

If you are worried about priming you can do that via the oil filter feed line using a squirt oil can.

Thanks Tim,

Do the lifters need to be adjusted after the engine has ran hot?

Bill