Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Seem my 56 Clipper is developing a brake issue

The area where the reservoir hose enteres the master cylinder is wet and the reservoir is losing fluid when the car sits around and inch from the reservoir overnight.

The cars brakes were gone thru when I bought the car in '16
and the master cylinder was rebuilt in Florida at that time so I was hoping to avoid any issues but I know these brakes can get people hurt based on what I've read here so I was trying to be careful.

I driven the car to a local event last night after making sure the reservoir was full and it seems to stop fine. Obviously this needs to be addressed but some questions.

- is the fluid in the system sufficient to stop the car when reservoir gets low?

- how safe is it to drive with the leakage if the reservoir is filled when in use?

- Does the master cylinder need to come out to be repaired?
The tube from the reservoir seems to be screwed in tight, but the square plate where it enters the reservoir is visibly wet.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Am assuming you are talking power brakes?? If so more details on the hose in question please.

There are two metal tubes that go into a Y shaped brass fitting at the end of the master. A single rubber hose enters a fitting at the side of the booster section near the car floor to provide vacuum. A square plate is at the end of the booster section where it mounts to the floor and well away from any hydraulic fluid. If that plate or the rubber vacuum nose next to it is where you see fluid there is a serious seal failure between the hydraulic and vacuum sections and vacuum is most likely sucking the missing fluid out of the reservoir. It needs to be corrected immediately because you don't know when the seal will totally fail and all the fluid will disappear.

If you have the somewhat rare optional remote fill kit with a glass jar on the firewall and that is the reservoir you are concerned about then there is a fluid fill hose connected with that item at the master. If that is where there is a leak, it is not as serious an issue and fluid is running out a damaged hose or poor seal at the cap or lid to the master cylinder.

Addendum: There is a square plate which forms the top of the reservoir and is screwed to the master casting. If that is the plate in question which is wet I think the fiber gasket around the fill plug may have deteriorated or broken allowing fluid to leak. Possibly the gasket between plate and casting is damaged allowing fluid to leak out and be blown on top of the plate. That would be very evident with the remote fill kit providing more fluid but not so much if there is no other source of fluid other than what is in the master reservoir. It would not account for an inch loss in the master reservoir but would in a remote fill reservoir.

Thanks for your reply, I do have the glass jar with a hose that terminates at the top of the master cylinder, and yes Power brakes.

There is a picture attached to this post, it shows the area where the hose enters the master, the area where the screws are visible is where its wet which is the top of the master cylinder

So my questions are the same

- if the jar is empty will that cause a brake failure?

- It appears the seal area where the plate that that the hose attaches to on top of the master may be the issue.
I'm wondering if that means pulling the master cylinder to replace the seal?

Attach file:

---

  (100.36 KB)

If the jar is empty it will not cause a failure since there is still fluid in the master cylinder reservoir that cannot go anywhere unless there is a leak in the main hydraulic section or at a line or wheel.

You should not have to pull the brake unit to fix the leak. I suspect the fiber gasket on the base of the fill cap may be the culprit but a loose fitting or bad hose from the remote reservoir cannot be ruled out either. You should be able to disconnect the hose at one of the fittings and unscrew the cap from the square plate to replace the gasket or tighten a fitting. Remove the jar to prevent siphoning but you will lose whatever fluid is still in the hose when the hose or cap is loosened. Take care none drips on painted surfaces.

If it needs a fiber gasket and you cannot find one locally you might try Kanter. They have been known to slip small inexpensive items like that in an envelope and send out at no charge.

Attach file:

---

  (106.99 KB)

Thanks this is very insightful, to be sure I'm clear on what your describing, the illustration shows a flexible tube, followed by a connector, followed by the plug, followed by the gasket, this is the gasket your meaning correct?

So: - remove the reservoir
- unscrew the plug
- replace the gasket
- reassemble

If I go into the local NAPA and ask for a 1/2" (or what ever the correct size is) fiber gasket is there some description I can give that would insure that the material is correct for use in a brake system?

If that is where the leak is the cap gasket will need an ID of approx 1.25 inches. No idea what might have been used with any of the other fittings. Just pull the whole thing and find out exactly what or where the problem lies.

For a new one you might take the cap to Napa and see what they have in some hard fiber rings or gaskets. Not sure exactly what the composition is but most likely equal to typical hard gasket paper. The cap size is probably similar to what other mfgs used and you may be able to cross reference to modern. If you can't find it then Kanter should have some. When you replace the cap make sure there are no burrs or sharp edges on either sealing surface that would damage the new gasket.

McMaster has something that will work but they are sold by the box so you would need to order a quantity of 50 to get one.

Thanks again Howard, another question, lets suppose the gasket is replaced, the fill line now has air in it, does air get drawn into the system so it has to be bled?

The air won't get drawn into the regular brake lines because of the fluid in the master reservoir. Supposedly working the pedal in normal use will cause the remote fill line to self fill and eventually fluid works down to the master as the bubbles trickle up to the top and into the glass jar. To speed things up you might fill the glass jar and let fluid siphon down the tubing a bit to get it mostly filled before you tighten the hose at the final fitting or cap on the master. If Randy or acolds sees this post they might have better info. I believe they both have the kits in their cars and could say if anything special is needed

Howard, you are spot on with your info as usual.
Air will not get into the brake lines from air in the siphon hose. As long as the hose fitting is tightened snugly and the gasket doesn't leak, things will rectify themselves, no bleeding required.

Thanks for all the insight, seems I should be able to do this.