Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Vintage air sent the newer looking under dash unit, which I am having second thoughts about, because it kills so much footroom in the passenger seat.

When I called about exchanging it, they were emphatic in suggesting that I not go with a trunk mounted unit because it doesn't cool the upper torso of the front seat passengers quickly or emphatically. makes sense....

I'm torn between the more modern looking unit I have, with no legroom for anyone ever, or a Mark IV setup.

Either seems to kill practical use of the glovebox. Has anyone converted the glovebox to a drawer or rehinged the lid so it remains useable?

I'm 6'4" and built along the general dimensions of a bear; my wife is a snappy 5' 12". For us, the front seat isn't all that spacious even with the seat all the way down and back. so footroom is an issue.

An indash setup is too costly......

Any input you care to add is appreciated....

When I investigated putting A/C into my 55 Pat some years ago, but never executed it, my plan was:

1) Remove original AM tube radio (control head, tube amp and speaker from behind the dash).

2) Remove original heater box from engine firewall and associated plumbing vents from passenger-side firewall.

3) Remove ash trays on both sides.

4) Use Vintage Air heater/cooler combo mounted on the now freed up space against the inside firewall behind the dash. This is hidden from view.

5) Install swivel A/C outlet vents in the holes left by ash trays and radio head unit.

6) Use radio control knob holes for controls for the new A/C.

The resultant install would be mostly hidden and look close to stock. However, I never executed this because of lack of $. And it is NOT bolt-in. It would require fabrication and complete removal of the dash, etc.

However, all the parts like swivel heads for the outlets and control knobs can be had from the aftermarket vendors. For example, I found and purchased one round swivel A/C outlet from Southern Air that proved to my satisfaction that they would fit fine in the existing holes left by the ash trays.

Craig

My 56 Exec has hump mounted 1958'ish Mark IV unit. Glove box opens just fine but NOT all off the way open. I use a glove box quite often. It presents no problems for me.

QUOTE:
"I'm torn between the more modern looking unit I have, with no legroom for anyone ever, or a Mark IV setup."

Is there any aftermarket MODERN hump mounted units available from anyone??

I'm 6"-2 and 185 pounds with a 34 inseam. The Mark IV unit does cause some minor right foot interference as well as right lower leg calf interference. But i can live with it. It's not bad enuf to complain. The blower motor of the Mark IV is noisy and gets rather hot rite there at my rite foot.

I've also had to canabalize 2 other Mark IV units for parts over the years. Switches, vents (old plastic gets brittle and breaks easily).

I don't know of anyone who has actually converted the glove box to a drawer although some have mentioned the possibility of trying. If not already done or no kits available, not sure it is a realistic solution at the moment.

I agree with Vintage on the rear setup. As mentioned when discussing factory trunk units in other threads, it does have the drawbacks they cited as well as a couple of others. Not the most ideal situation and I don't think you would be happy with it.

Don't know which modern unit you had bought or how it mounts to kill legroom but you did mention possibly going to the Mark IV repro unit instead. That is probably the most period correct and one of the smallest overall hang on units available that is still large enough to cool the car. From the picture in the Vintage catalog, it looks as if the hoses exit on the drivers side which should make installation easier as well.

Several have mounted similar units directly on the transmission hump instead of hanging from dash. While it is still tight, mounting low and as far back as possible usually lets the glovebox door open. If door does hit, one nice thing about the hinges is their construction allows slipping a piece of hose or tubing over the underdash end to extend the stop. You can play with the length of the extension so it prevents the lid from dropping far enough to hit.

EDIT: Keith brings up a good point about the mount. I don't know what the repro unit has but the older Mark IVs shown below had the option of both tunnel or hanging mount. If the repros do not have that provision, then your installer could probably make something for the tunnel without too much difficulty.

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Craigs reply above is the best solution. However, it will require the skills of a MASTER. The common garden variety ASE certified R&R technician probably wouldn;t touch it. Like Craig said, it all boils down to $$$$'s

However, on the leg room issue with the under dash mount unit it mite be advantagous to redrill the floor and move the seat back about 2inches or so. Mite cramp rear seat passengers a bit tho.

Quoote:
"For us, the front seat isn't all that spacious even with the seat all the way down and back. so footroom is an issue."

The front seat room is deceiving. I found that placeing a 3/8" block under the REAR mount of the seat improves the comfort greatly. IT simply sets the back rest of the front seat more verticle. For some reason PMCC thot packard owners wanted to recline while driving. I'm 6'-2" and still have plenty of head room.

ANother problem is steering wheel position. It is too close to the dash and too close to the pedals. What we really need is a telescoping steering wheel or lengthen the mast jacket to get steering wheel setting further away from dash and then move seat mounts further back too.

PackardV8 Quote:

The extra 5in wheelbase between the JR and SR is in rear legroom, so I don't think that losing 2in in the back by moving the front seat mounts back that much would affect the rear seat passengers any in PatGreen's case.

I thought of doing this exact thing to my 55 Pat, but since I'm "only" 6'1" with a 32in inseam, my current legroom is OK. However as I put on the middle bulge, it becomes a more attractive modification.

Craig

PackardV8 Quote:

Yes it does require high skill and would be best done with the car completely apart for restoration. But, PatGreen asked for any suggestions...

Craig

glove box door. NOTE rubber bumpers on chrome strip along top of evaporator to protect door paint. NOT the best solution but it was quick and simple and does the job.

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The rather skimpy beverage tray becomes inoperative with my set up. But the beverage tray is not the greatest design anyway.

The Mark IV louvers of the vents are VERY frigile, probably due to age.