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Well now going to get heat back on..it is remarkably straight and no warps…I cleaned it up and discovered the torque on the old gasket cut an indentation into the head…I can feel it with my fingernail and worried the new gasket will leak…got it cleaned with razor blades and would most likely have to sand the grooves out…..I don’t want to ruin head by sanding and wondering if I should coat the impression with some type of sealant before installing gasket} thanks for any help[PROCESSING IMAGE.... PLEASE WAIT]

Just get it as clean as you can. I would not sand it. It's important to get the block clean as well, and get it clean right up to where the studs screw into the block. Don't leave any crud around the studs where they meet the block. Follow the correct tightening sequence and tighten with a good torque wrench in 3 stages, and re-check torque after the engine has been run and allowed to cool down. I've had good luck on flat head engines using conventional type gaskets using spray on Coppercoat gasket sealer on the gasket itself. All threads need to be clean and lightly lubricated.

Great thanks…I do have conventional gasket and bought the copper spray the other day..head is cleaned well and have printed out the torque pattern ….appreciate the information..I will install tomorrow…!!

Well put new gasket and head back on and now I’m only getting 30 psi in all cylinders! I’m at a loss.. I thought the valves were sealing pretty good .. the gasket was a new old stock.. and I have the manifold off … could they all be this bad with same reading for all? I also have temp guage out and hoses not connected but didn’t think it will matter.. hoping there is another reason!?

Are you cranking using starter? What impulse are you getting your reading?

Cranking system should be up to par, i.e. fully charged "good battery", Good starter motor.

Take pressure reading on third impulse.

Screw in compression gauge is best, but, rubber tip, push in gauge works good enough. PB

So it always has cranked slow compared to a newer car…battery was losing power after numerous tests so it’s back on charger…it’s the first impulse which hits 30 psi…none will go any higher no matter how many revolutions….Ii does seem like there is not enough cranking power sometimes..but 5 of 6 were around 60 psi before working on it…they all seem to react the same way during testing..I’m just hitting the starter button with key off..plugs out coil disconnected… and manifold and carb off…

If readings were much higher before the work, I'm guessing there is debris under the valves. It takes very little to cause them to leak. Dry piston rings may also be a factor. Was any valve adjustment or other valve related work done? Did the engine run well before the head was removed?

Engine ran well but I could tell it’s lost power over last year… compression low on all cylinders but super low on one..when I pulled. Head the piston head was clean from gas running over it…did the valves and replaced gasket..so I don’t know…may have to just pull the head and re check everything..especially the valves…I would really like to just be able to check all my valves sealing correctly…is there a simple way to do this? At least that would eliminate much confusion if I knew they were sealing…I poured alcohol over the seated valves but with how they are positioned on an angle it’s hard to tell if they were holding back the fluid or the fluid was just rolling away with gravity…I don’t mind pulling the head again..it s not going anywhere! Tks for help

Did you adjust the valves after grinding them?

If you found one piston that is much cleaner than the others, it may be due to the engine having run with a coolant leak.