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I am in the process of changing the timing chain on my '47 Super Clipper. All right so far until I looked in the manual and see a tool for removing the damper that I don't have. The damper on the 356 engine is a friction disc type and the puller is unlike the more common ones that I do have the required tool for. It looks like a tool can be made pretty easily with some bar stock and some bolts but I am wondering if anyone else has had experience with this type of damper removal and has an alternative method. I am assuming that a gear puller is a BIG no no although the back of the pulley looks very sturdy. Sorry for the lousy photo, the upper photo shows the tool.

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The V-8s used much the same tool. I had a friend weld up a puller so I could pull the damper WITHOUT injuring the ring covering the rubber. It has to be made so that it exerts pressure on the steel portion that is close to the crankshaft.
The picture is the V8 tool but you get the idea.

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I think the gear puller type should be avoided unless the jaws are deep enough to grab the center without pulling against the outer part. Possibly, if there is enough room to place maybe a 1/4" piece of flat stock behind the damper that would allow the puller jaws to catch onto it instead of outer rim might work. As Randy pointed out, pulling against just the outer ring is not a good idea.

Making your own out of maybe 1/2 flat stock would not be too hard from the looks of it.

Use at least 1/2 inch flat stock to make the puller. Prefer 5/8 to 3/4. I think mine is 5/8. Use 2wo bolts and heavy washers on the bolts that go behind the pulley.

HERE"S THE TRIKY PART:
The bolts or legs mite try to spread as pressure is put on the puller. Use a large C-clamp to keep them tite against the side of the pulley. C-clamp will need grooves in the anvil and swivel. In lue of a C-clamp try a large hose clamp or several hose claps connected together.

I used a large C-clamp but it seems to me one time i used the hose clamps too or maybe that was on another application.

Hopefuly yours is not real tite. Every once in while i run into REAL TITE pulleys. Especialy big block Chev. If real tite fit u will need to use a large hammer to strike the bolt each time the bolt is tightened a little more strike the head of it.

Thanks for all the help. I ran into another snag today. The largest socket I have is a 1 11/16" and the damper bolt is 1 3/4" so off to NAPA. I have found some steel bar stock and the parts to make a puller. My biggest 3 leg gear puller might work so I will try that first but if I meet a lot of resistance I will make the puller from the bar stock.

I removed the damper with a big gear puller I had with no problems at all.I pulled the cam gear Ok as well with the same puller but have hit a snag trying to remove the crankshaft gear. The jaws of my gear pullers can't get between the gear and the engine block. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what tool I need or what other method would work. I was also going to remove the oil restrictor mechanism to clean it and ensure it is working but the plug for that see to be a bronze plug with a recessed 11/32" square hole. I made up a tool to fit but the plug won't budge. Maybe best to leave well enough alone since oil pressure is fine.

Sometimes aplying heat to the gear will allow it to expand enough to slide off...my

I seem to remember these as just a slide fit--no special tool needed. Probably some varnish or the like causing it to stick. Is the key still in the slot & if so, can it be removed?

The heat might work or possibly a small thin nail puller type bar on each side of gear so as to equalize pressure--as long as there is cast iron or something solid to push or pry against.

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Thanks for the help. I was surprised that it would be so tight myself. Yes the key is in the slot which made me wonder if that was the problem but it seems to be very tight as well. I didn't want to get aggressive with this until I got another opinion or two from someone who has done it. Now I know it should just slide off I will keep at it.

Howard and TJ's56, Thanks again, I tried the nail puller method as suggested and it moved the gear with just a little tug and after that it came off easily. Perhaps a little rust or varnish as you suggested. Now to get the new chain on and make sure the little (O) marks are aligned!