Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hey guys I had a flickering problem with my headlights... After finally getting the wiring straightened out I realized one taillight was out... Is that enough to cause headlights flickering? They would only flicker after a while of driving, im assuming the circuit breaker was heating up.

The headlight circuit breaker also protects the parking lights and tail lights. If there was an intermittent short in the wiring to the taillights it could have tripped the breaker. The breaker is self resetting so after a few seconds it will try to reset and lights will come on. If the short is still present it trips again and the cycle repeats until either the short clears or the breaker fails.

There have also been cases where the breaker has lost capacity after all these years. Instead of tripping at the rated amps it can trip at considerably less. That can happen after lights have been on a period of time even without a short.

Oh cool I can pick up a new 30 amp circuit breaker from napa? I asked auto zone they didn't know what I was talking about

Napa has threaded stud 30 amp breakers although some local stores may not have them readily stocked. The only ones I see on their website have mounting ears on the ends. Those ears may have to be dealt with. They bolt directly to the switch and on some the clearance is small. To keep it working as per original, you want the type I self resetting breaker.

Also what's the procedure for removing the circuit breaker and possibly part number or reference. Wiring is not my cup'o tea

There is a thread on removing the switch assy to access the breaker and wiring on the 48-50 herepackardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ic.php?post_id=96287#forumpost96287

Removal directions start in the 4th post and the top two photos show the rear and top of switches. Headlight switch is the far right switch and the circuit breaker is the little rectangular box bolted to the end of the switch.

Looking at the photos again, I do believe the ears will have to come off the new breaker for it to fit. Napa may carry a single breaker in a blister pack with the regular electrical stuff instead of the duals this number is for.

Max also has the real Packard item #410047. breaker

Attach file:

---

  (27.13 KB)

If your car is a 51-54 model, changing the circuit breakers is much easier. Disconnect the battery and pull the instrument panel forward at the top, after you remove the two screws at the top of the panel. Reach underneath and remove the speedometer cable first. You can then pull the panel back towards you enough to remove the breakers. There are two, one on the left of the speedometer and one to the right. The hardest part is putting them back in - a screwdriver that holds the screws makes the job easy. Let me know if you need photos, I'll go drop the panel on my 51 and shoot some.

Okay awesome! I took a dmm and started poking around a bit. What amperage level is normal for a headlamp switch, I tested the breaker to see if it was maxing early, after fixing the taillight it seems to stay around 24. It no longer flickers but gets hotter than me on Friday night. I also realized the new tail bulb I purchased is not as bright as the one I had prior. I kept one original and one new to check the difference, and the older is much brighter. I also realized I have no trunk lamp, or at least can't find it. And the interior switch on the inside of the pillar shows no results and not sure what its for. Sorry guys I'm a newb

It's. 49 touring sedan btw

Trunk lite was an option on many models. If you have one it would be a round assy located about in the center of the lid. Gets power from the taillight feed and has a mercury switch built into the socket. Only lights when the taillights are on and the trunk lid is up.

The pillar switch lights the reading lamp over the rear window. It is in parallel with the door switches and connects to ground when operated. Either door open or the switch should light the lamp. If none do, then it could be bulb or power. If just the pillar switch doesn't work then it's probably dirty or has overheated and distorted the sliding contact plate.

I believe someone measured the current last year but I don't remember the value right off. I think it was around 17-20amps but won't swear to it. Perhaps someone will remember the thread and will come up with a good number. 24 may not be out of the ballpark though. If you mean the breaker is heating up, I've never checked how hot they get. Maybe someone can give an idea if that is normal. If you mean the bulb, yes they do get nice and toasty. Some of the later lamp assys have a plastic diffuser inside. If those get out of position, they can get a nice browned or even a melt spot.