Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

A good working Bendix system is almost indistiguishable from very light manual steering.

I completely agree Ross! I know there are some who prefer to swap out the Bendix for the Monroe system, perhaps because the service part situation is better, but the Bendix system to me is as good as it gets prior to power rack & pinion.

Ross Quote:

OK, I'll try it and let you know.

Craig

Yes. Thanks Ross. I'll try it too.

Did your bushings look this bad? Just replaced them in the Patrician. That should make a difference.

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Randy Burger Quote:

Maybe slightly worse.

Craig

thanks very much , craig,

the engine is still out of mine, so it is easy to see,,the rubber torn, split, etc...

will i have a problem, if i replace the bushings with engine?,,,so much easrier,,

i have a complete, bendix, i got off a clipper, in a wrecking yard, years ago,, i wanted to get more off of it,,but,,didn't have the money,

not in the mood to put it on now..while i am thimking of it,,the trsns oil, we use is type (f) right?,,not (a),,

thanks rik

Here is the start of my control arm (link) tool, took the shape off of craigs picture in packard panther.

I used a 12 ton press, its 3/4x1, not set up to harden it, might use u clamps to hold it to link. or 2 plates and 4 bolts.

that's my 400 its on

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Wow.............somewhat "painful" images attached.

I do remember those days way back when. I guess they were fun actually. All things are possible as you all have previously shown and indicated.

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Riki Quote:

On my completely assembled 55 Pat it was difficult to get the lower control arm raised enough to join the end of the upper control arm to the king pin end of the spindle. I think this would be virtually impossible without the weight of the engine & trans. As a matter of fact, in addition to the weight I had to use a bottle jack under the frame on the other side near the front door in order to lever the frame over to get the upper arm connected. Then me (230 lb) and a 250 lb friend leaned down on the fender/bumper on the to-be-connected side. That was enough to reassemble.

To get the P-side upper arm on/off only required removing the generator. The D-side comes on/off no problem without removing anything.

Craig

A couple more hints:

Unless you have the right hydraulic press, accessories and experience, farm the R&R of the bushings out to a competent automotive machine shop.

Also, do not tighten the nuts on the ends of the upper arm inner cross shaft until the car is level.

Craig