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You should be able to heat it enough with the welding rod itself by just sticking the rod to it and it'll get red hot. Then break the rod off the stud and weld. 6011 is a good rod for dirty metal, called a junkyard rod around here. A good one for building up weld is a 7018. It's also good for burning deep if needed. If you could get a large nut to stay centered over the hole, you could fill the nut with weld to the stud. I did that once with a broken caliper bolt. In any case, good luck!

Thanks everyone - got it!

Well, sort of...

The weld didn't hold again, broke off where the weld hit the stud, but the heat from the arc weld must have annealed the extractor, and I pounded it through into the water distributing area. So now I need to fish that out, I plan on using a magnet down the hole where the water distributing tube goes.

Also, half the threads remained in a sort of crescent shape; the extractor hole wasn't quite in the center. So I then tried to drill and tap a 3/8 16 hole, and that is sort of out of round, so I'm going to get a heli-coil for 3/8 16 and install that. The metal where the threads go is less than 1" more like 5/8 or so thick. Plus my welding burned some of the cast iron away from the hole at the surface.

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Carl,Sorry to hear of your Problems.I went through similar troubles with my 51 300.Fortunately I had experienced such trouble before.I also collect and restore antique outboard motors.And learned, as Owen (I think)said forget the "easy outs"In short they aren't and they don't.I broke a few studs on my motor.Never tryed to get them out.Yup you guessed it I drilled them out.Work your way up in size till you can punch or knock them out of the threads.With this method you do not need to hit the screw dead center.(But try any way.)Even if you screw it up you can always use a heli-coil.Just try to use that as a last resort.Often times failure is not an option.Try to make a choice that will allow you to back track if your first attempt goes for nought.One time I had a Wizard 10 hp.(Western Auto.)the first two bolts I broke off in the block.After that horror story. I sprayed the daylights out of the block With Kroil on a 90+ degree day,And put it in the sun. Waited three or four hours ... and didn't break another one.Got the broken ones out as well.Be patient.Go slow. Brian

Thanks Brian, got the stud out. I re-threaded the hole, it sort of holds. I'll check to see if it can hold 35 ft lbs, and add permatex thread sealant when I put the new stud in. If not then I'll move up the heli-coil.

Carl, If the threads are questionable just JB weld them then retap.JB is very strong under compression.If you are not satisified with them, heli-coil. BHW

Great tip! I'll give JB weld a go before I try heli-coil. Thanks Brian.

JB Weld is good stuff, but I'd be a bit concerned the exhaust heat where that stud is would be a problem.

The stuff is good to 600 f my guess is with the coolant there it would be ok.We are only talking small amounts too. B

Hi Carl,
Sorry to hear about your problems with the stud. I have been there many times and as you've found out a right s.o.b.
I know it's too late now but bear in mind for future reference machine shops with "spark eroder" equipment.
This removes broken studs etc with ease. Had one done on an old Rover many years back and the job was completely successful after going down the same route as yourself on this one.
Sorry I could'nt give you the info earlier but I picked up the thread late.
Best regards
Terry

Don't mess around, get it Helicoiled. JB weld is ok but in this case you would be asking too much.