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Paint colors -

I see on this paint chip chart for 52 the two-tone JO is what I think my car should be; upper is Gallent Green (darker) and lower is Aspen Green (lighter).

Anyone seen this combination?

I just researched BigKev's blog, and see he used Tower Paint. I called them, and emailed them the paint chip image below. Let's see if they come through...

This 51 looks close...
link to photo: link

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Chad would be glad to hear that I had a good experience at the Crystal, MN O'Reilly's Auto Parts store - Ray was super nice and found nearly everything I needed. Kudos to O'Reilly's!

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That is good news! just remember my ceel phone trick i told you in case you get stuck with the punks!

Got the oil pan off, good news to report: looks clean inside, no big chunks of metal, just 50 years of sledge on the bottom (nearly 3/4 inch!). I'm soaking the oil pickup in kerosene overnight, and have cleaned the pan inside and out. There's one large dent on the bottom, I'll get a picture posted tomorrow. I don't feel like banging it out, doesn't seem to get in the way of anything.

BTW I didn't have to jack up the engine. The four pan bolts near the crossmember came off with an open-end wrench, and then I spun the motor to clear the counterbalance on the crankshaft. I did have to drop the steering on the passenger side, and one of the bolts (the one that attaches to the frame) needs to be re-threaded. It's between 3/8 and 1/2 inch, and I don't have a die for that, so it's off to the store I go. The castle nut that was on it is missing threads as well. Is that part of the design?

The engine and crankshaft, looking up from underneath, is quite interesting. Someday I'll have to take the entire engine apart, replace the rings and the main bearings, but for now everything looks good.

Tower paint (1-800-779-6520) called back and they have my lower body paint, Aspen Green 41165, in enamel only. I ordered two rattle cans to get the firewall started. Their website is terrible but their customer service is outstanding! Better be for the price. $48.80 for two rattle cans delivered. They saw me coming.

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Not necessarily. I just paid $27 for a gallon of what is supposed to be a universal cleaner/degreaser/wax remover that is "environmentally friendly" ie no ozone depleting vapors. Smells like ordinary lacquer thinner which goes for a third that at the hardware store.

Then another $38 (wholesale, she said) for a quart of stuff that is supposed to make paint bond to urethane which is acetone, laq thinner, and MEK according to label. Anything paint is gonna get you.

At least where you live, I doubt you have an air resources board that has outlawed almost all the good materials leaving nothing but also rans or water based stuff.

I thought everyone wanted to live in California.

Apparently others are under that misconception as well-- even though we're a state with a $25 Billion (that's with a B) budget mess which is going to require massive cuts in something, have one of the highest tax rates, highest housing costs, highest utility rates, highest unemployment, highest regulation BS, and on and on, the population still keeps growing--and not all from inside. Hard to believe but apparently there are places people think they're worse off & think the grass is greener etc etc.

Eric, you are right, their is no cover plate on the back side of the differential. Guess I was dreaming of one. I'm going to clean off the front side, snug all the bolts down, and look for a leak afterwards.

I attempted to drain the converter on my ultramatic today, took out one drain plug (at least I thought it was a drain plug - look at picture 5) and rotated the tranny 180 and took out the other, expecting 4-5 quarts of fluid to come out. Bone dry. I have had the main oil pan off for a couple of weeks; should I be concerned there was not fluid in the converter?

Also, the bracket that holds my steering assembly to the frame has some threads that are gummed up, and the castle nut only has threads on the top part of the nut, not in the base. Is that correct? I want to rethread the bracket, it seems to be between my 3/8 die and my 1/2 die, so off to the store I go looking for a fine thread 7/16...

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#1, Your leak is a pinion seal, and no amount of tightening down bolts will fix that. It's kind of a job to do, you have to drop the driveshaft, remove the pinion flange, pull the seal, replace, and then make sure you get the pinion flange torqued down correctly. Like I said, it's a job, but it's doable in the afternoon if you take it slow and easy.

#2, I don't think that was a drain plug, I'd keep spinning the converter over until you find another one in the same general area.

#3, That nut and bolt are simply stripped, and need to be replaced. If hadn't gotten rid of my '53 Clipper I would have one of those for you. You might get away with tapping and rethreading, but I'd just run a die down the bolt and buy a new nut at a fastener store like Fastenal or the like.