Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I didn't realize we weren't in postwar section...sorry guys!

Paul,

Again, it really all depends on the prep work. Let's say you took all the trim off the sides and masked her up and she didn't need any body work and let someone just scuff her up and resquirt her...shooting from the hip, let's say no clear coat, maybe 150-300 in paint a little more in supplies and labor. If you get everything ready to paint and want a quality paint + clear, maybe 1K? It's so hard taking painting prices over the internet, because every car is different AND because every owner has different expectations about what is a "good job."

Mine has some fisheyes and not totally painted well under the trunk and under the hood and door jambs etc. I painted the black on the firewall and up higher to cover some of the underhood versions of the paintjob that weren't that great. If you're willing to depart from perfectly original or show quality, there's shortcuts you can take that might save you money (non-original or close enough color, single stage paint, etc)

I consider the job done on my car as quick and dirty, and the car isn't 100% straight, but she looks ok and has a shine, she presents ok. This shot is from last year after i had a local detail shop buff her (pic taken through window) and a shot of the engine bay before i was done with her, you can see how i painted the engine bay up high with black to cover a lot of the bad areas that were half green half black and faded.

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Looks superb to me! The engine compartment looks clean as a whistle. Mine is clean, though not to that degree. Did you change the fan blade? Will that help with getting too warm when idling? My car did that once in San Antonio and it scared the heck out of me. The car did not boil over, but the needle was ALL the way over to H! I would like for that to never happen again...

I just had a garage built for Tootie and Gretchen (an old VW convertible), so I might be able to do some of the prep work like removing things, etc. My biggest concern is the 1950's repair on the front fender. It was done with lead and it is shingling and curling up. The areas below look like they are beginning to rust. I doubt the color could be matched if I had just that part repaired and painted. The other spots are low on the car where the man I bought the car from scraped things while pulling into his garage. (intoxicated alot.)

Paul

I did all of that with spray cans and time. All the parts off, paint brackets, etc individually, use fresh hoses and wires, tons of brake clean, etc. Not a lot of money, just effort.

That is a 5 or 7 blade flex fan, i think 16" was all that would work before hitting the water pump pulley. two spacers (one like 3" and one like 1/8", and puts the fan VERY close to the radiator for max draw.) it does move a TON of air vs the 4 blade fan, rev it up while you're working on it and it's a TON of warm air, and i'm sure at low speed it's improved too. It's not a magic bullet for cooling, but if your car is on the edge (heats up now and again, rarely boils over, generally efficient) then it can help. BUT, as close as it is, the radiator has to come out to put the fan off and on. I modified the car so that's only a few bolts to get the upper radiator brace that goes over it off, and the radiator can come out and the fan and/or motor out the front.