Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Quite a regular
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After
Posted on: 2011/5/17 18:24
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Quite a regular
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I've been waiting for a body cart to show up that I ordered, but in the meantime, I fabricated an adjustable lift arm for the shop crane to hopefully lift the body after it is braced. If this doesn't work, we'll have to use the backhoe I guess. When these cars were built at the factory they used straps through the door openings from what I was told, so I hope this works.
They do make arms similar to this, but I made mine stronger and cost 1/4 of thier price
Posted on: 2011/5/17 18:38
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Home away from home
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Looking good! You're making progress much more quickly than I am :). One more quick question about the doors: did you get them out with a little heat from a torch, or did you have to resort to more destructive measures? I'm picking up a loaner torch tomorrow and trying to get the door hinge screws out with an application of heat, but if that doesn't work, I think I might have to weld a nut onto each screw and then use my impact wrench.
Posted on: 2011/5/17 19:52
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Quite a regular
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Ken, believe it or not neither methods. We have used lots of PB Blaster and very few bolts or screws didn't come out with to much of a problem. We did break a few though. The door bolts were though because of them being a #3 phillips head, but I got them all out.
Posted on: 2011/5/17 20:02
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Home away from home
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Interesting. On my '37, they are flat head. I have a hand impact driver, and after two types of penetrating oil, all I've succeeded in doing is breaking 3 3/8" flat head impact bits. I pulled the wood out that the interior panels mount to and was planning on applying heat to the screw from the backside. Hopefully I can find some phillips head screws for when I put the doors back on. Max Merrit has them, but I was quoted about $3 each; that seems a little steep.
Posted on: 2011/5/17 20:37
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Just popping in
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Where can i get a complete wiring harness for my 1938 model 1182 ??
How can i loosen up (without destroying) the light switch, which seems to be the key to the entire wiring assembly ???
Posted on: 2011/5/24 20:50
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Quite a regular
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It's been a few weeks since I really got any time to work on this project with all the other work coming in the door, but I did have time to strip the outside as seen on the roof above, and put a coat of captain Lee's metal conditioner on it so it doesn't flash rust on me. Here is the results of that process on the tub.
Posted on: 2011/6/14 19:50
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Re: Henry's 1938 M/N 1182 restoration project
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Quite a regular
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The lift arm I built for the shop crane worked like magic. After much thought and studying the car body as well as seeing others lift their bodys without bracing, tested checked measurements and tested the lift process, just to make sure it could be done without using the bracing I normally do. This particular body I guesstimated to be 700-800 lbs as is in the pictures.
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Posted on: 2011/6/14 20:07
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