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I'm running 0 gauge cable on both terminals and had sent out the starter for a rebuild. Except for mouse-nest junk inside it, starter was in need of very little supposedly. They also painted it and installed new solenoid. Maybe if I clean the mounting area on starter and engine block as I haven't tried that yet.

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Today I got the wipers working. Well, first I got one working. The pass side wouldn't move at all. I figured that one of the linkage rods had come off and was surprised to find a large pulley assembly with 2 long cables. Was able to reach the pass side pulleys but couldn't see how the routing of the cables went until I took out the glove box, defroster hose and all the old fiberglass(?) insulation that had fallen down onto and into everything. Once that was done, air hose and shop vac work wonders, I could see the whole cable assembly. There's an upper and lower cable and in my case, the lower was on the upper pulley and lower one lost in space. Apparently someone else had tried to fix it but had gotten the lower cable looped around the upper twice. After that was straightened out and cables on the correct pulleys, I noticed that the pass side cables were rather loose. Adjusting them is quite easy if the pivots are free and lubed and they just fall in to place when the pulley assembly nut is loosened. After tightening them, I gave them a try and they work. Just have to give them a little pull from the vent window as they go up once and stay there unless I pull. After that, they keep working. I've also found what I believe to be the correct wiper control knob. If it isn't, someone will tell me I'm sure.
Otherwise, I tried cleaning the mounting area for the starter and even ran a ground wire from one of the bolts. That only gave the slightest improvement in starter speed. Now I've only got to find a good home for the car in the way and the 48 will be on the road again...

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That is the correct wiper knob, they also used them up to at least '53, although on the side of the steering column.

Cool! I found that knob inside the mangled insulation I was throwing away. Looks alot better than the piece of an old stereo I was using. Gotta have good wipers to drive around here lately. Only 2 days out of last 60+ had no rain.

Last night I took the Packard on its' first real drive under my ownership. 12.2 miles round trip. Except for someone using the exact moment I was coming down the driveway to make a u-turn and stalling the car to avoid hitting him, then having to use the jump box, all went very well. Shifts nice, rides smooth, and was doing a comfortable 5 (50) up route 11. If I run the car here, it usually gets too hot in about 10 minutes but actual driving keeps the temp right in the middle where it should be. Also charging works alot better on the road. Amazingly, I didn't have to stop even once on the way to work. All the traffic lights worked like magic. Of course I hit them all red on the way home this morning. oil pressure stays in the 30's after warm-up. No knocks, pings, smoking, or obvious leaks. So I can officially consider the 48 operational!

Today I nailed down the rest of the wiring and lighting issues. The brake lights only needed cleaning out with adrill bit inside the switch plugs. T-signals only needed the "mystery wire" reconnected. Parking lights only needed one rear socket cleaned and one new bulb in front. Back-up light gave some grief since I didn't know that it only operates if the headlights or parking lights are on. In the end it only needed the undercoating someone spayed inside the trunk cleaned off for a good ground.

Hi There. I was reading through all your latest postings and saw all the work you did on the wheel cylinders. I don't know where you are located but if you have NAPA auto parts stores there you could have probably bought new cylinders for around $15.00 each. Much better and much less work. In the old days I have honed my share of wheel cylinders. I found that when there was any pitting you are better off replacing them. Honing makes them look better but they may still leak. I would check them after a couple hundred miles for leakage and replace them with new ones if there is any sign of oil in the dust boots. I think the break system is the most important system there is on a car, second are the tires. It is a mistake to skimp on their repair.

PS. A new master cylinder would be around $50.00. Another good investment.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I haven't seen a NAPA operating since 1997. My only local options are parts that have been sitting since the 50's and need honing anyway or auto parts stores that either have no listings for this car or the computers won't let them order the parts even if they find a listing. Can't even get a 6v light bulb around here. In talking to most local antique car buffs around here, I've found that most of the local classics have been 12v converted and are running different brake systems. A lot of them even use the antique-plate registration to avoid having to fix things like lights and wipers.
On a lighter note, I plan on having the originals sleeved with brass to avoid future problems. I just want to get some miles from all the work done this year. All my classics get full stainless steel lines and hoses with new or sleeved cylinders, master and wheel.

Today I tried to get registration on my 48. I got clear title and insurance but no notaries seem able to register it. Supposedly, it's because it had antique registration put on it in 1982. That changes the title and the DMV doesn't like to change them back. I found an air filter that will fit the stock base and all I have to do is make a flat round lid with a hole in the center. Only downer is putting a stud extender on it to give me the extra half inch needed.

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Why didn't you title it as an antique in the first place? I'm sorry, but I don't know how Pennsylvania DMV works.