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Owen is correct, the meters came from Bruce Blevins, the 733 and 745 share the same oil plumbing system so he can hook you you up with all the parts except the tees.

Ray, it's funny that you call this progress, I have been slacking for most of the summer. I'll take your compliment though.

Owen, it seems that my engine builder (Classic and Exotic) is having problems with the timing on my engine and thinks the cam may have been ground incorrectly. Do you know where I might find the correct valve timing information? I need to know when the valves are supposed to open and close.

I don't have a specific citation for the 726/733 but the following is the specification for the 826/833/840/845 and all 9th series Eights and I believe the same applies to the earlier series. There is a change beginning with the 10th series Eights.

With #1 inlet tappet set to 0.004 in. inlet opens 20 degrees or 6-1/2 flywheel teeth before T.C.

Source: Chilton's 11th Edition (1937),

Todd,

Looks like you're making good progress on the 733.

I've had the pleasure of owning three over the years a 726 &

two 740's. That was many years ago in college & shortly

after.

Success & good luck with your 733.

Packard 385

I believe I contributed this before in the Bijur information in "Packard Parts and Literature" but thought I'd just put it up again in case it's useful here. It's for the 7th series left-hand drive cars.

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Owen, I printed a copy of that out from one of your previous posts. It was very helpful.

The problem with my cam may be in the grind. Brian lined up the marks on the cam gear and crank and then checked the timing and found that the intake was opening at 6 degrees ATDC which is 26 degrees late. He then rotated the cam 26 degrees to bring the intake opening in to spec and found that it threw off the exhaust. The only way this can be off is if the cam was ground incorrectly. The engine would already be in my car if it weren't for this problem.

I really need to find the exhaust specs to check it for sure.

Sorry about the problems, and sorry I don't have any spec. for the exhaust timing but assuming the cam is correct, only one timing point is needed and one would suppose Packard didn't anticipate an incorrectly ground cam.

But if Brian has any other 7th thru 11th series Eight or Super 8 engine in the shop and known to run OK, it shouldn't be that much trouble to "create" a spec from it. Or even just a known-correct camshaft for comparison. I did have a spare 1001 cam here, tried for years to sell it or even give it away, but no takers so I finally scrapped it (it wasn't service-worthy as is); if I still had it I'd be glad to send it to you. I'm thinking how I could make a measurement for you from either of my engines w/o disassembly but come up blank.

Todd,
My 1930 small eight if running fine and I am located in Mt. Clemens. If checking out my engine would help in any way it is available to you.
Ron

Thanks guys, there is no way to measure the engine without removing the head or the valve covers so I'll have to figure something else out. I'm too cheap to buy you guys new gaskets!

Brian at Classic and Exotic Service had a running 745 at his disposal so he checked that engines timing against mine and found they were the same. All the books (and the flywheel markings) say that the intake is supposed to open at 20BTDC but both engines have the intake open at 6ATDC. The cams on the two engines are not interchangeable. I don't know what to make of this but I'd like to move on. The Chassis is looking awfully lonely without its engine.

While the engine is getting its timing sorted out I decided to clean up the transmission. After opening it up I found that it might be the only part of the car not needing lots of attention. The gears looked almost new. I decided it just needed some new seals, a throwout bearing, some new gaskets, a good cleaning and a fresh coat of paint. The only difficult part I encountered was removing the throwout bearing from its housing. Using a puller, I tried to remove the bearing but only succeeded in pulling the bearing apart. This left the inner race still pressed on to the housing. I could have heated the race up to remove it but the housing is stuffed with felt that acts as a wick to draw oil in to it so I didn't want to cook it. Instead I just clamped it in the bridgeport and used a carbide end mill to cut the bearing off. After I got the new bearing on, the front seal installed and made new gaskets the trans went back together fairly easily. Pics to follow.