Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

So, I'm driving my 55 Pat around and I get concerned about the fact that it is wandering around "a lot". So, I check all the steering components and they all check out OK. Then, I call my buddy Paul Cornwell in Las Vegas and he tells me that if the alignment is off the T-L Packards will do that. He advises to check the upper control arm bushings because if they are worn, then, of course, the alignment is wandering around and therefore the car will wander on the road. So, I check them out and two of them (one on each side) are busted out. I get on the Xref and find the TRW number and order them up from the local OReilley's Auto Parts.

The next day, the TRW bushings arrive from OReilley's. I have my helper come over and we take the front uppers off my 55 Pat. That's not too difficult to do, other than the fact that my helper did not position the jack stands on the outside of the lower control arms, so there was some tension on the screw cross-shaft when we removed it with the impact gun. We'll have to fight that when we put it back together.

So, I take the upper control arms to my normal machine shop to have the bushings R&R'd. Well, his press is broken, so he refers me to another place. Before I leave, I ask him: "So, what do you think these control arms are off of?" He has no idea. Packard, of course. Since he had seen my 55 Pat before, it now made sense to him.

So, I go to the referred auto shop. Same deal and fortunately, these guys are "cool". After I tell them what I want and it's apparent that they know what they are doing, I ask the guy who's going to do the work: "What do you think these control arms are off of?" Answer: "Jag?" LOL! So, then the mechanic asks me: "Hey, do you want those arms tanked and then powder coated?" LOL. I tell him: "Nah, it's not a show car." He says: "It must look pretty good!". Then I say: "I'll bring it by when it's back together and you be the judge." He says: "Deal!". An enjoyable situation at the local auto repair shop.

Craig

One thing to help 55-56 guys in the future:

You have to disconnect the battery and then disconnect and remove the generator to take the P-side upper control arm off. The D-side will come out the bottom, no problem.

I'll mention this for future guys doing a generator removal: on my 55 Pat, the cross adjustment brace from the P-side water outlet bolt to the generator was broken at the point of adjustment attachment. I didn't know this until I took out the generator. Fortunately, I have a spare adjustment crossbrace from a parts car, so, I just had to wire brush it off, prime and paint it before preparing for the reinstall.

I have no idea how a solid piece of metal such as the cross adjustment brace could break, but it did.

Craig

i ordered some bushings ,,some the rubber is already cracked, these are moog.. made in mexico.

question, will buick bushings work?,, part no. 3-3101g,,summitt racing. the moog have a bump near flange, press fit?,, another does not have bump, but same part no.

the moog pt no. 8083,

rik

ps the buick are polyurathane

but i am looking at sleeve if it is same size.

The ones in the Xref on this site worked perfectly. I don't know about any others.

Craig

I forgot to post that my 55 Pat is driving much straighter now, but given the slop in the power steering system, it will never be like a modern car. That's just part of the charm.

Craig

i have slop to,, been trying to figure that out for years

Riki Quote:

The slop is in the control valve itself. It has to move some before it directs hydraulic fluid pressure one way or the other.

See illustration Plate 31C in the 55-56 parts book. The pitman arm (group #15.321) connects the steering gear assembly (15.310) to the control valve assembly (15.610). On my 55 Pat, every steering connection is tight, the steering box is tight, but the control valve itself has slop. Apparently, this is normal. Not a very good design, IMO.

Craig

ok,

i was looking at steering gear,,,cause when you get on a road that is high in the middle low outside, the (lane),,my steering wheel goes half way up to keep car straight. or is that another problem..

rik

Riki Quote:

It may be the same problem I had -- worn out upper control arm bushings. With some side force (crowned road), there will be force on both control arms. The bottoms are usually solid, but if the uppers are worn (rubber missing in my case), then the camber changes (also caster to a smaller degree), which changes the wheel angle WRT the road and then the car won't stay straight and requires a lot of steering wheel correction.

This problem is easy enough to check by eyeball, i.e., the problem of worn bushings will be obvious. For the best view, jack up the front end with a floor jack under the engine crossmember, support the lower control arms with floor jacks, take off the wheel/tires and look at the upper inner control arm bushings. A flashlight or shop light may be required to get a good closeup view.

Craig

The float in the control valve (Bendix 4-hose system, not Monroe)can be easily checked and minimized: just take off the little sheet metal cover on the outer end of the contol valve. Tighten the nut you find there til it is only snug, then back it off just a hair, maybe 1/8 turn, til the bolt that nut is on will move side to side a tad. After many years and many hands diddling it might be a lot looser than that and translates directly into lost motion. It should be a self locking nut. If any question about its integrity, replace it or double nut it.

A good working Bendix system is almost indistiguishable from very light manual steering.