Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I got a replacement solenoid from Napa Auto Parts (the one suggested in the other post linked in this thread - NAPA #ST56). I installed it (see attached photo). I had to put the good solenoid on the bottom so the new one would fit. Now, when I turn on the under dash I/O switch the new solenoid clicks after seven seconds and the car's back end does not lift.

A side issue is that the car will not start. I thought the battery was drained, but i put a battery charger on, overnight, and the charger says the batter is fully charged. However, the car will not start; the engine does not turn over.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

I also tried installing the new solenoid upside down (from that in the picture), but I got no power registering at the solenoid's small terminal; so, I assume I have the new solenoid installed correctly. The solenoid's terminal indicated with "Bat" is connected to the positive battery feed.

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I do not know the V8 cars, but maybe it's the neutral safety switch keeping the car from turning over?

look for a blown fuse

And if you have a pushbutton trans make sure the P or N button is firmly depressed so the start safety relay is energized. The starter wires are two brown ones. They go to either the column shift safety switch on the steering column near the firewall on engine side or the safety relay. That relay is a 3 terminal black one at the top rear edge of the group of PB relays & nearest the TL solenoids.

As to the no lift, if the solenoid clicks at least it is getting a command. One question before going any farther that should have been asked earlier is if the problem is a recent failure or did you recently acquire the car and the system didn't work when you got it.

No blown fuse. This is a recent failure. I've had the car for 5 years. I did have to replace the solenoids two years ago because of the same situation, and I had no issue; just replaced the solenoids and and the car leveled out just fine.

The car does not have a push button transmission/drive selector; it has a column shift selector.

Quote:
" and the charger says the batter is fully charged."

Let me guess, the battery is 5 years old too. What the chargers say or other e-diagnostics devices are meaningless.

TRy a KNOW TO BE GOOD battery.

I really think you need to refer to the diagram Randy posted yesterday and verify where the transverse bars are before we go much farther. Use a mirror or jack the side up far enough to see the drivers side bar and make sure it is correct. If the solenoid shorted or limit switch failed then the motor would have kept running and the bars could have switched sides. That has happened on a couple of cars and they were sitting tail end down also. If bars did switch, the normal operations go out the window and we could do some damage trying to bypass things to get it level by jumping solenoids.

One other thing on the non start. Assuming the wires are connected and it is in park or neutral, use your voltmeter and check the brown wires to ground to make sure there is 12v present while someone tries to start. One of the nasty problems with V8 ign switches is they take the full current of the start solenoid and pick the nastiest times for the start contact in the switch to fail.

The batter is less than two years old, but that's a great suggestion. Off to Les Schwabe I go. However, I wouldn't think the TL systems needs a fully charged battery to run the electric motor, but then that may explain why i'm only hearing the solenoid click and the TL motor not moving.

Quote:
If the bars did switch, then what do I do to correct them?

Because the engine will not crank and the TL motor does not work that makes for a battery problem or a problem very near the battery such as cables or wires. No point in trying anything until a battery that is KNOWN to be a GOOD battery is used and good cable connexions. Could be a bad ground cable to engine or engine to cowl ground wire.