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I'd give it another couple of days. Your plan of putting the fender in the sun in addition to the heat should finish it.

I sure hope so. took it back into the garage...sun down now.

it got pretty dang warm on the surface.

the parts that are over paint are a bit tacky...but the bare metal and rust parts...completely dry. so it may be the fact that is over the paint and taking long to dry.

sorry, dry is easier to say, but thanks for the correction OD ;0)

if it doesn't dry hard....I wonder if a regular clear coat of paint over the top will be a good resolution since you can paint over linseed. I don't want to be picking up smudges and smears and pieces of bugs and lint that get stuck in the linseed and smears when I try to wipe off.

Hank

I think I sprayed it too thick. its not wet anymore...its dry...its just clingy to your hand and in other parts is perfectly hard and smooth and doesn't cling.

I got it out in the sun again. I may end up spraying it with clear coat and just using the linseed to stop the rust. cause I want it to be completely dry to the touch..no tack. I want to run my finger across it and it not leave a long smeary smudge. I want to beable to wipe dirt off and it not stick and just smear into the linseed.

kinda a bummer.

sprayed an inconspicuous area with some clear in a can I had on the shelf. instantly better on the tacky side.

i'm thinking dropping it all off to be cleared over the linseed is going to be the real deal.

sorry Stephen....but linseed over painted areas is not really ideal. over bare metal and rusty areas....good to go.

its been out in 100 degree sunlight for about 9 hours total and still its clingy.

I sprayed the clear on top of it...in 20 minutes it was perfectly smooth and no tack.

Hank,

I am sorry it didn't work out for you. I am wondering why it hasn't fully cured/hardened/dried. When I have put it over painted surfaces it has dried for me, although I did heat the oil to 140F. The clear coat over the painted surfaces sounds promising.

One question-did you get the raw linseed oil or the boiled? The cold press raw linseed is thinner in its structure, becomes thicker as it is boiled.

I really feel pretty bad about this.

It is the boiled. Don't feel bad bro. It is great for stopping the rust and every other product I've seen for that is not clear and would have made preserving the patina a moot point. So it is still a good suggestion. I'm in no hurry so it's gonna have many many weeks to harden more. We will see what happens.

Like I said I think I sprayed it too thick and it isn't soaking in over the painted parts.

The next part will have a better chance as I have the gun set right now.

this morning.....a bit better suprisingly. but the clear, for obvious reasons, is totally dry, hard, and wont even tack at all. also i can rub my fingernails on it and not worry about gouging it already.

the linseed leaves a mark if i rub my fingernail over it.

so.....we will see over the weeks....but i'm pretty sure i'm going to linseed the whole thing to preserve the rust and get the nice deep patina color....then have it all clearcoated for a nice hard protective waxable shell.

this is fun ;0)

Great news. Looking forward to seeing photograph of fender after you hit it with the clear. Perhaps hang it on the Clipper to show off the difference.

started working on the trunk lid. no particular order...just grab a panel and start working.

first was to repair that rot in the corner. which i did like a total noob. i could have just cut it out and used epoxy putty. but i opted to fill it in with weld, figured it was small enough i could build it up and grind it down.

well i kept running into more and more rot as i went. took a bit till i got to good metal and the weld would stick. then i put the putty on the top to fill in the crap weld and then sanded it and painted it.

then i drilled another water drain hole....at least i'm thinking that was what that was for.

it ain't perfect...but it was good for practice and its in a spot nobody will see.

i then scrapped off the old crusty undercoating and got some new herculiner to replace it. the stuff they use for truck beds with the rubber bits in it.

gonna get the loose panels all done....doors/hood/trunk lid/fenders. then take those in to get clear coated.

the body is going to be the real bitch. wish i could do like Craig did, but i have no room for that.

this is how i spent father's day. laugh if you want, but hey...its fixed.

Hank

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scrubbed down the inside of the trunk lid with the murphy oil soap and washed it and let it dry.

then linseed went on.

today it is setting well.

after scrubbing the part i repainted, it dulled the paint to match the rest and i can't make out the repair much at all now.

you can see before and after linseed and comparing the two sides. not bad for my very first every try at fixing metal. (i'm biased though, obviously)

after the linseed sets up, i'll come back with the herculiner and then the clear will go over that.

Hank

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