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cli55er Quote:

Upon closer inspection, the rubber for the T-U rear mount is indeed broken loose. Here's the rear of the T-U as the driveshaft flange is resting on the frame, offset from the centerline:


We were able to lever the tailshaft up to center and use a suitable scrap 2x4 to hold it centered:


Here's a closeup of broken loose mount rubber:


The engine mounts are equally bad, so I'll have to do something about jacking or pulling the engine into proper position and supporting it. It hasn't moved too far though because the adjustment bracket for the generator has limited it's travel towards the passenger side inner fender.

The biggest problem right now is the weather. We're not getting the lower (~75F) overnight temps we usually get. For instance, this last week, the temp at 4AM has been ~85F and it goes up from there as soon as the sun rises. Also, we've had thunderstorms both during the day and night. Despite the thunderstorms and associated high winds, the "Flipped Clipper" has not moved. In any case, it's too hot right now to be doing any work either in my garage shop or outside on the Clipper.

I was suspect of this via your quote, glad wood is helping to fix ....... Not glad weather is not helping.... Wish I was near I would sweat hard to get this done... I'm ansy and ready to buy if price is reasonable

I was suspect of this via your quote, glad wood is helping to fix ....... Not glad weather is not helping.... Wish I was near I would sweat hard to get this done... I'm ansy and ready to buy if price is reasonable

cli55er Quote:

I'm getting very close to coming up with a price. I now know all my material costs and special equipment costs (to be amortized). I need to get the steel tubing prototype done, so I can get the price on the final (professional) welding. I'm waiting for the steel flanges from my old supplier before I can start on the prototypes. I found a less expensive way to do the collectors than the special dissimilar-size 3-into-1 collector pair that he is providing, although I will use those on one of the sets since I already paid for them.

BTW, almost all bends will be mandrel bent or parts of same, so you won't see any "crimped" bends on these headers (see other thread on crimped/mangled bends on stainless steel but stock shape exhaust pipes). I and you, i.e., any future purchasers, will be happy with the headers and the only downside is that they are under the car where no one can see them unless it's on a lift. Of course, one could install an electric exhaust cutout and then you could hear them!

Craig

good to hear, thanks for the info.

i do plan on a set of dumps i can open by cable. since the car is postive ground, will be harder to go electric on those.

henry,,

a dpdt relay,,will work,,it reverses the current,,you cross the contacts, toggle switch, one way is pos,,other way is neg,,center off,

Well, the thunderstorms seemed to have passed through. We've had 4 significant ones in about one week. At one point my front and back yard (1-1/4 acre) looked like a lake. Through it all, the "Flipped Clipper" is still vertical.

Even though I have not yet received the flanges for the headers, I was able to start removing necessary exhaust parts from the Clipper. I ran into typical problems you would expect with rust-frozen bolts. None of them really mattered that they twisted off clean except for the #4 from the front on the D-side exhaust manifold. When it would not bulge, I soaked it in PB Blaster for 24 hours...then it moved without twisting off...whew, that PB Blaster is great stuff!

Right now both head pipes are off as is the P-side exhaust pipe through to the rear muffler (this is a single exhaut). Also, the D-side exhaust manifold is off. The P-side exhaust manifold will have to wait until it is more dry because I will use my cherry picker to lift the engine (both engine mount rubbers are broken, hence the shift groundward) and the ground is too wet/soft to support the cherry picker right now.

Craig

While it's been drying out here in my yard, I've been price shopping. I've definitely found a way to reduce the price on the collectors which were the most expensive item from my old Supplier. I may also have found another old supplier who can CNC cut the steel flanges (once I determine it works and have an example of it), which is another expensive item. There are various sources for the 16ga mild steel tubing for the pipes that are relatively inexpensive, even without quantity purchase up front.

The next unit to be built (steel prototype) will be somewhat pricey because I wasn't looking for best price for those parts, but rather feasibility and availability. However, if I can amortize these "start up" costs and "fixed costs" (equipment) added with the "best price" costs, these headers should be price-competitive with current USA specialty headers from name brand suppliers since I am not trying to make a profit per se. Professional welding cost to be added will have to wait on the completion of the steel tubing prototype.

In any case, don't expect "produced in China" prices!

Craig

cli55er Quote:

Yes, the motor mounts were broken and the engine had SLIPPED out of position, but not too far. This morning, a friend and I fixed it. i.e., Unslipped the Clipper engine. The T-U tailshaft position was corrected previously with a simple block of 2x4 wood.

Here's a digipix of the D-side engine mount with broken rubber. Notice the separation between the frame and engine:


Using my trusty Cherry Picker, we pulled the engine up into it's correct position, i.e., as if the Clipper were horizontal and had unbroken engine mounts:


Using new 5/16IN steel cable and a turnbuckle, we tied the engine up-down (in the normal, unflipped, sense) in the correct position. The cable was wrapped around the crank balancer and the D-side frame.



To correct the left-right engine position, a second steel cable and turnbuckle was connected between the power steering tension adjustment bracket and the frame:


A couple of large bolts were placed between the cable and the frame to reduce the angle stress on the cable where it comes through the hole in the frame and turns approximately 90-deg:


Craig

Just so there is no confusion, anyone actually installing a set of these to-be-completed headers will NOT have to do anything like this on their Packard. The above was done just so I can use my 1955 Clipper Super 4dr parts car as an accurate fitment vehicle for the header prototype and production units.

Craig