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Re: OIL FILTER MYSTERY
#21
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Russell James
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G'day fellas,

I have been combing the V8 pages looking for a question on Oil Filters. Glad I found this one to reference my concerns.

I am just about to fire up a rebuilt engine and have been scratching my head over...
- the correct filter to buy?
- what are the right part numbers?
- how does the filter actually work?

HH helped by mentioning the 1/16 holes that should be in the central shaft - mine must be blocked severely as no amount of compressed air up the pipe revealed any outflow other than the bolt hole (and there should be no leakage there once the bolt was in place!).

I am also assuming the flow direction is in from top out the bottom onto the timing gear? Is this correct?

Also, reading about the importance of the oil filler cap in the filtration, I am concerned that having this powder coated may have been a mistake?

Your opinions and direction sought...

Russ

Posted on: 2014/3/3 0:04
Russ (the prodigal son)
56 400 (sold 2022)
39 1702 7 pass touring (long term project)
38 1602 7 pass limousine (needs work)

Learnt to drive on a 50 in 1969
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Re: OIL FILTER MYSTERY
#22
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John Payne
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Russ, Ryco has a suitable oil filter over here in Oz - it's an R4P and they can be ordered in if your local Repco doesn't have them in stock. As I understand it, the oil filters are bypass filters and as such don't filter all the oil all the time as it circulates around the engine. Some of the guys on this site have fitted direct inline filters but this apparently needs to be done with the engine apart. I change my filter every second oil change. Cheers, John

Posted on: 2014/3/3 5:11
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Re: OIL FILTER MYSTERY
#23
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Owen_Dyneto
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Fram C4P. It's a common filter unit used in quite a few applications other than Packard. Also Purolator L30034 & Wix 51006.

The oil filler cap mesh should be rinsed in kerosene, dried and reoiled with each oil change. It was certainly a mistake to power coat it if any of the coating got inside the mesh area.

Posted on: 2014/3/3 8:46
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Re: OIL FILTER MYSTERY
#24
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

Russell James
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G'day Dave,

It sure did get in the mesh!

For expedience, took the decision to cut the cap open, remove old mesh and find a replacement material, then braze back together.

For now the start up will happen with sock type filter.

Glad I asked the question and thank you for the reply.

Cheers

Russ

Posted on: 2014/3/5 4:27
Russ (the prodigal son)
56 400 (sold 2022)
39 1702 7 pass touring (long term project)
38 1602 7 pass limousine (needs work)

Learnt to drive on a 50 in 1969
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Re: OIL FILTER MYSTERY
#25
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Owen_Dyneto
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Last time I looked you could get the copper mesh from Classic & Exotic, though many just use a similar mesh sold for kitchen cleaning. Methinks "Chore Girl" is the trade name.

classicandexotic.com

As to your other unanswered question I am also assuming the flow direction is in from top out the bottom onto the timing gear? Is this correct?

Yes, the pressure feed to the filter is from the front of the left (driver's side) cylinder head to the side of the canister (at the rear), and the return is from the bottom to above the timing chain. Don't forget to clean the sludge out of the cone at the bottom of the canister when you change the cartridge. And check the rubber gasket fit carefully, these filters can be leaky with the wrong gasket and some of the cartridges come with 2 different rubber gaskets depending on application - make sure you select the correct one. And if you have the conical stamped steel lid, DON'T overtighten, you can distort the lid. If you have the domed cast steel lid you're less likely to have that problem.

Posted on: 2014/3/5 10:07
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