Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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Yes all metal line except the rubber hose from the gasline bolted at the front cross member to the fuel pump. I am sure this is factory line and never been changed. I would like to duplicate the all metal line so was wondering about the brass connector brazed on the end of the fuel line where it joins up with this rubber hose. I had to cut it off to get it out but left about 2" of line. I suppose that I could flare the end and insert a short piece of rubber if the fitting can't be rebrazed to a new section of steel line. Thanks for the link to the retro fit unit! It looks like it could be made to fit mine also. The sender is bolted to the gas tank so I imagne I would just need to drill some holes to line up on the existing ones. For $20 or so it would be worth a gamble.

I see the piece you refer to and it looks to me like it might have been silver soldered instead of brazed. I say that only because mine is absolutely square and don't see any type of buildup from brazing. Have you tried heating it with a propane torch and see if it will come loose? I would think with the proper flux, that should be doable.

HH56, I thought that it might be soldered also but the propane torch didn't soften it at all so I presume it is brazed.

Mine is still on the car and a little hard to access--although I might play with it this weekend since my line also needs to be replaced if I decide to finish the car. Is there any evidence the fitting might actually be pressed on or some such or can you clean the fitting enough to see if there is a braze line.

Mine was cut off so I simply put in an inline filter. It's not quite stock. But, it works and helps to clean the fuel. It's a quick easy fix you might want to consider.

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The gas line was pressed into the fitting about 1" and soldered. I have soldered in a new line. Now to try and bend that 5/16" pipe to fit the contours of the frame.!

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Good to know when (if) I do mine. Glad you figured it out. Did you figure out how to make the gauge co-operate as well?

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No luck on the gauge. I tried fiddling with the contact tab but no differenec. I can't see any breaks in the resistor portion but maybe it is broken on the inside where I can't see it.

Any good ideas on how to get the new gasline in? I suppose that the original was pre bent and installed before the body and engine was attached. Getting the new one in with all this hardware in the way is going to be a challenge what with weaving it under the engine etc!

Sorry about the gauge. Don't have any further suggestions at this point other than a known good sender. If the resistance between the case and terminal is approx 75Ω or more when the float is at empty, then it's unlikely the resistor is broken--more likely the support has deformed enough so the wiper does not have the same amount of pressure across the length. At that small of contact area and resistance, any changing resistance caused by a lighter "touch" will be reflected.

The gas line is going to be a challenge. Am sure it was pre-bent and just laid on the frame & clips when bare. I don't see an easy way short of removing the front end--unless you just have incredibly more patience and flexibility in places you bend and stronger hands to bend the tubing than I have. Getting the half dozen small bends around the Left shock & suspension and then across the radiator brackets and having it lay flat and still look good is going to be quite a trick. After that point is past though, going back toward tank appears to be relatively simple

Again been many years since I have had to do this, as years ago good used sending units were about 5 to 10 dollars each and everyone wanted to unload them. Worked on many cars and I seem to remember doing this once. What you can do (I think) if you have enough clip leads or wire. Is, bring the sending unit to the front seat, where you can connect it up as if it was in the gas tank, but with you looking at the gauge. The gauge acting as the ohm meter. Now you can move the arm up and down, and sideways slowly to see if you have any open spots. It doesn't take much. Or if the wiper is lifting off of the wire. Or if you have an extra battery and gauge you can do on your bench. I seem to remember opening one of these up at one time. It would have been for a prewar senior model. I think I remember bending the wiper just a bit to make up for sideways slack in the arm and bushing. Burnishing the contact with a piece of business card and some sort of solvent, probably brake parts cleaner, but not for sure. Then I believe this unit used a couple of rivets to put the top back on. Also just thought, make sure the arm is not hanging up on only one position.