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I did mine just like the uppers, relief cuts, burn out, and air hammer

Not a lot of work lately. Either to busy, cold or out of town.

I did get the rear end apart and cleaned up last week. It was in pretty good shape. I was expecting a lot of gunk inside but it was all fluid. I already have the new seal and will probably resemble this weekend.

I do love finding the Packard Script in places that I don't expect to find it. That's why I posted the photo of the script I found on the gears.

Also, I think I need to retract what I said a few weeks ago about the Upper Control Arm Inner Bushings from MOOG fitting the arm arm. While they are the correct diameter they are also 1.2 to short. You can see from the image that I posted back then that the inside of bushings is not going to be long enough to reach the raised edge of the pin that passes through it. I guess I will be ordering the right parts from Max's soon.

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What weigh of gear lube was used, 200? Also in that picture I see washers on the studs, I'm guessing those are the copper washer added back in 1947 to keep lube from leaking out around the bolts. Can anyone comment on that?
Thanks!
Wes

I was planning to ask the same question about the oil myself. I just put it the gears back in the housing on Sunday.

I do not recall any copper washers on the studs. They were on the all three plugs but not the studs. Having said that, what does stop the oil from leaking around studs?

Until asked about it I has not even noticed the location of the studs inside the new seal. Seems it would just leak around the threads.

I am attempting to dissemble the steering knuckle.
Before I do I want to find replacement Kingpins.

Whats the difference in the King Pin set for vehicles with and without power steering? Every one I see online is for vehicles without power steering.

I only had the one picture of it and its much cleaner now.

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Stewart, I got mine from either max or Kanter, I cant remember. Not to state the obvious if you have been into the pins before, don't throw away the spacer ring in the left side of your pic, you will have to reuse it with the new pins.

Maybe the problem was corrected in the later years, but here's what I was talking about. See the picture below.
Wes

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1953 to 1955 rear axles used a plastic or rubber ring with a square cross section to seal the studs instead of the previous copper ring.

I guess I am going to the local Ace Hardware this morning and get some O rings for those studs. Sure glad someone brought that up before I went any further.

Well I think the ford 9 in is the same design with removable ham and studs in the housing. My experience with the copper washers under the nut heads,the o rings and gaskets were they were all ineffective. The lube will seep past and leak. Though not factory correct, the leak free solution was a bead of ultra gray plus encircling each stud on a clean dry oil free surface and install of the diff and allowed to cure overnight. Just what worked for me.