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'41 110 Ignition Timing Procedure
#1
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Ragtime Kid
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Can anyone describe the process for setting the ignition timing on my '41 110? It has the Delco Remy distributor with the vacuum advance. The book says 6 degrees before TDC but I don't know if that means with the vacuum advance hooked up or not.

I've not set timing before on a car so feel free to mention all the obvious details (like where to plug in the timing light!) since I don't know what I'm doing!

I've installed a Pertronix on a fairly wobbly distributor shaft so curious to see how it runs and what goes on with the timing.

Thanks!!

Posted on: 2015/9/18 23:19
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Re: '41 110 Ignition Timing Procedure
#2
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Owen_Dyneto
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Disconnect the vacuum line at the distributor and block the open end with a golf tee or piece of tape. How to connect the timing light depends of which style of light you have, there are two in common use. The first, a cheap and barely satisfactory (but not inaccurate) light has no provision for an external power source and just goes in series with the #1 spark plug wire. The second is externally powered, usually either 110 volt AC for 12 volt DC; connect the light to it's power source and connect the plug lead to #1 spark plug such that the plug wire is still connected to the spark plug - most lights have a short metal adapter for this purpose if your plug wires have a molded rubber boot.

Start the engine, allow it come off fast idle to the correct idle speed (must be a speed below which the centrifugal advance will come into play); aim the light at the vibration damper (watch out for the fan) and take the reading. Best if you first cleaned the vibration damper and put a tiny bit of white paint on the tip of the pointer and the desired mark on the damper. Adjust as needed.

But I strongly recommend that you correct your distributor problem first; If you have enough play in the shaft/cam to feel, chances are you'll never get satisfactory engine performance.

Posted on: 2015/9/19 8:03
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Re: '41 110 Ignition Timing Procedure
#3
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Ragtime Kid
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Thanks, Owen for your detailed response -- much appreciated!

I will follow your advice and get the distributor rebuilt. I fired up the car today with the Pertronix installed for the first time and it started right up but didn't have that smooth, slow idle as before -- instead, it was jumpy and irregular. I didn't let it run long.

If anyone knows of a place that can rebuilt this old distributor or, better yet, where I can buy one already rebuilt and ready to go (I could keep my current one as a spare in the trunk with the original points in it for the day the Pertronix craps out), please let me know.

Thanks!

Posted on: 2015/9/19 23:49
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Re: '41 110 Ignition Timing Procedure
#4
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Owen_Dyneto
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There are several companies that advertise distributor rebuilding in Hemmings Motor News, I have no experiences with any of them except AER who does excellent work, though not always quickly. If you find a rebuilt available, chances are near 100% that you'll have to return your old one as a core, or pay an extra core change.

Just as a note to others, Packard (and Texaco, Mobil, Esso, etc.) lubrication charts called for the distributor shaft oiler (grease cup on earlier models) and the felt wick under the rotor to be oiled every 1000 miles. Some models also require a drop on the felt wick for the breaker plate rotation. I'll bet these are among the most neglected of all lubrication requirements on older cars - study and follow the lubrication charts! If you don't have one, charts from Marfak (Texaco) are on the PAC website for 1929 - 1958; click on "Lube" from the left-hand menu. Or use the one in the shop manual, service letters, or owner's manual. A couple of drops of oil here and there are cheap, rebuilding units because of simple neglect is not.

Posted on: 2015/9/20 9:10
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