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Fit to the quarter panel:

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/12472550_10156536436390468_880040909719248849_n_zpskywu1cdh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/12472550_10156536436390468_880040909719248849_n_zpskywu1cdh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12472550_10156536436390468_880040909719248849_n_zpskywu1cdh.jpg"/></a>


Shape matches the original panel:

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/12821597_10156536436450468_253068111840631969_n_zpsufsxwbe2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/12821597_10156536436450468_253068111840631969_n_zpsufsxwbe2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12821597_10156536436450468_253068111840631969_n_zpsufsxwbe2.jpg"/></a>


Started repairing the inner fenderwell so I'll have a clean flange for the quarter to weld to.

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I have started on the rear half of the inner fenderwell. There is a dip in the upper part of the fenderwell lip and I want both the front and rear to be solid before I go about straightening that out.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12717947_929520490500103_6939643630543891828_n_zps9uf26xcm.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12717947_929520490500103_6939643630543891828_n_zps9uf26xcm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12717947_929520490500103_6939643630543891828_n_zps9uf26xcm.jpg"/></a>


I used the "dirty thumb" method of making a template for the shape of the lower edge.

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New piece welded in.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12278940_929521477166671_5920883188415192993_n_zpseyvevwxl.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12278940_929521477166671_5920883188415192993_n_zpseyvevwxl.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12278940_929521477166671_5920883188415192993_n_zpseyvevwxl.jpg"/></a>

The rear inner body mount brace was in bad shape along the bottom so I made a new section to repair it. I had added a couple temporary braces to hold the back of the car in place as the brace had become weak and sagged with the weight of the body on it.

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I mentioned flexible shape patterns earlier so I'll show how I made it and how to read it once it's made. Start by adding a layer of painters tape, its not as ridged as other tapes and the weaker adhesive makes it easy to remove. Then add a layer of reinforced shipping tape. I also added a second layer with the strands turned 90* to the first layer so that the tape can't stretch later when it's removed.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/1916667_929521677166651_1689680376395420920_n_zpstja0viug.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/1916667_929521677166651_1689680376395420920_n_zpstja0viug.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1916667_929521677166651_1689680376395420920_n_zpstja0viug.jpg"/></a>


Peel it off and sprinkle the adhesive side with baby powder to reduce the adhesive's grip. You can see that it retains the shape of the part.

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Now the pattern can be laid flat on a countertop to see exactly what areas will need stretching or shrinking. One thing to note- areas that only need bending will lay flat as well, such as the side of the pattern with the raised bead pressed in. That side lays flat because that shape is only bent in one direction (the same way you'd fold a piece of paper). Only the areas needing shrinking or stretching (compound curves) will show up in the pattern. There are two spots sticking up right in the middle of the bend. This show how much and where the metal needs to be stretched to attain the correct shape on the new panel. Knowing exactly where and how much to stretch/shrink saves time and guesswork when you start to make the new piece.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/996674_929521793833306_5666366600611925415_n_zpszb9lgtpy.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/996674_929521793833306_5666366600611925415_n_zpszb9lgtpy.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 996674_929521793833306_5666366600611925415_n_zpszb9lgtpy.jpg"/></a>

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The finished brace, and I made a new section of the rear inner fender.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/1929445_929521820499970_9195479114004432918_n_zpscheaugdd.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/1929445_929521820499970_9195479114004432918_n_zpscheaugdd.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1929445_929521820499970_9195479114004432918_n_zpscheaugdd.jpg"/></a>

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I will say you do know your metal. Wish I knew 1/2 as much...
John

Thanks!

I finished up the rear inner fender section.

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Decided to start making the tail panel next. I had a spare tail panel to use as a pattern but the bottom edge was caved in.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12932984_936115113173974_6551748331561330662_n_zpscvtv1bcb.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12932984_936115113173974_6551748331561330662_n_zpscvtv1bcb.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12932984_936115113173974_6551748331561330662_n_zpscvtv1bcb.jpg"/></a>

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I roughly straightened it and skimmed/blocked it to get the edge shaped up so the paper template will be accurate.

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The paper template was pretty simple; there isn't much of a compound curve so the paper pretty much laid flat over the panel. I start by using magnets and tape to hold the paper in place tightly.

You can see the cut out for the bumper bracket marked, along with the edges.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/942551_936115299840622_1573759373171734245_n_zps4v5hei1q.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/942551_936115299840622_1573759373171734245_n_zps4v5hei1q.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 942551_936115299840622_1573759373171734245_n_zps4v5hei1q.jpg"/></a>



The upper/outer corners had enough shape that I had to fold over a section so the paper would lay flat.

<a href="http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/andersonautoglass/media/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12524432_936115259840626_8120351082992709177_n_zpsccytypvi.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1315.photobucket.com/albums/t599/andersonautoglass/Facebook/1940%20Packard%20120%20Convertible%20Restoration/12524432_936115259840626_8120351082992709177_n_zpsccytypvi.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 12524432_936115259840626_8120351082992709177_n_zpsccytypvi.jpg"/></a>


Pie cut corners to let the paper bend into the weatherstrip channel.

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Some of the details are easier to add with the paper laying flat on the workbench. I measured the flange in the weatherstrip and added that line to the template with fine line tape.

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The tail panel was flipped so the inner details could be added. Tape was added where there wasn't enough paper.

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Blank cut out after the template was finished.

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