Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Yeah, it's steel.

Okay, now that I found all the manuals with HH's help, I am inclined to do it as instructed in the book. It seems easy.

First, I note that the manuals give varying instruction on timing offset, depending on where you are reading. I have seen both 5 degrees BTDC and 6 degrees BTDC. Which is correct? Electrical manual says 5, and Engine manual says 6.

Second, I have found the marks for timing. To crank the shaft until I reach the appropriate position, what do I use? Is there a bolt head in the center of the pulley down there where I turn with a wrench or what?

Third, the manual cautions to check timing when engine idles at 400-450 rpm (in Electrical) and below 400 (in Engine). Again, I do not know which is right.

Fourth, how do I know what my idle speed is?

Fifth, I have always thought my idle speed was high, so in anticipation of having to adjust it downward, I recall many years ago adjusting idle by some screw on, in or near the carb. I don't know which one. Can you point it out on a diagram?

Once I get confident I know the answers to 1-5, above, I think I'll be ready to go. Anyone know what I should expect to spend on one of those timing strobe lights?

Not to add to your confusion, but verify which distributor you have. Download the technical bulletins for 56 especially 56-T14 & 19. There was a field and production change of dists just for your detonation issue and dist specs were changed from the manuals on some cars. In your case, I think it is more what stops the pinging rather than an absolute number.

Ok, thanks for the tip. I'll look at them. If questins 1-5 above are still relevant, any chance you know the answers to those? Given your track-record so far, my bet is you do.

You need a tachometer to know speed. Usually part of any decent test meter. There is a nut on the crank and you may have room to manipulate a socket between radiator and fan although probably easier from underneath. If not, will have to bump starter a bit at a time until it comes around. The speed needs to be below the point where the centrifugal advance comes into action so lower the better without it so low it stalls. I believe you have the Carter carb so idle screw should be B in the photo.

Attach file:

---

  (18.35 KB)

I have an Autolite. So, how do I determine whether it was the original, inferior one, or whether it has been converted using the conversion kit referenced in T-19?

Instruction 6 on T-19 refers to replacing the old name plate with a new one for future id purposes, but it does not say what the new name plate says or looks like to make a proper ID.

BTW, HH, you have had an answer to every problem. Are you a mechanic by trade?

If you still have the original the plate would be IBJ-4001 C and the replacement is a IBJ-4001 E

It's definitely not easy to see, but it certainly looks like either another "0," "D" or "8" after the 4001. I realize an 8 could look like an E, but it just doesn't seem to be an E. Are you sure C and E are the only possibilities?

FYI, there are more numbers to the right. I think the far right ends in 11K.

EDIT: Well, I do see it must definitely be an E after conversion as stated in instruction #9. So, to narrow the question, was "C" the only possibility before conversion?

55's used a 4001 and a 4001B. I suppose it is possible that another could have been substituted over the years if it was replaced after Packard out of picture. I think the important thing is after you round up the equipment, then check to see what yours is set at now and then make the changes & checks others have suggested and see if any improvements..

Not a mechanic. My reg life is working on medical imaging equipt--although that does lead to a bit of mechanics here and there..

I could buy "B." That's awfully close to "8," and my first guess would be an 8. I would reluctantly guess "0" second, but I do strongly think I see the horizontal with both sides closed.

So, what's the suggestion? 5 or 6, or what, BTDC?