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Looks nice. It appears you and your friend did a fair amount of work to make a new crossmember. It would be really nice if you would publish the finished dimensions or instructions to go along with the photos so others don't have to reinvent the wheel.

The 700R4 out in the open brings up a question you might be able to answer if you still have the Ultra. How much difference in width and height is there between it and an Ultra in the area around the selector shaft.

The electric shift motor unit is a tight fit in an Ultra because the trans is wide and selector shaft and motor is low so it barely clears the frame. It is difficult to remove for service because the trans has to be shifted to the passenger side to pull the unit off the shaft. Unless it is camera angle, to my uncalibrated eyes it looks as if the 700R4 is narrower and maybe the shaft location is higher up.

If it is, perhaps the PB unit could still mount the same way by having an adapter or collar made to slip over that stub shaft which would fit into the PB sector gear. A new contact finger plate could be cast to match the new pattern and with new support brackets to take advantage of what appears to be a couple of mounting holes, it might just be possible to make it work.

What is the black dome and the silver inlet at the back of the transmission?

Howard
I'll see about the measurements and comparison to the original this week.

Also
The black dome is the governor cover for the 700R4 and the silver inlet is where the speedometer is installed. I have the speedo parts just have not got around to installing it yet.

Howard
Here are some of the measurements between the 700r4 and the Ultramatic. I think the most significant difference is the location of the shift lug. The Ultramatic's lug is near the rear of the oil pan. The lug of the 700r4 is closer to the front of the pan. This alone may give more room for the push button unit but I don't know anything about those.

The width is nearly the same and for the length the 700r4 is about 2 inches shorter.

Still working on the new cross member. Remember I got the cross member from Bendtsen's. He gave it to me free because it was flawed. The trick was finding the flaw as he could not remember for sure. My friend and I had to move the cross piece about about a 1/2 inch toward the rear of the car for it all to come together.

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I got that broken bolt removed from the headers and they are all cleaned up. I got some VHT high temp paint for them but have not got to that yet.

The whole chassis and engine has been pushed to the back of the shop where it belongs. Going to pull the body back in the center so I can spend the winter working on it. I am hoping to have the body back in its proper place by late spring or early summer of 17. I don't expect to have the body work complete by that time. I just want to get the underside finished.

I have been cleaning out that black coating in the trunk so I can inspect it better. So far only one bad place around the spare tire tub. It should be an easy fix.

Pulled out the carb and starter for winter project. Not sure yet if I am going to rebuild them myself or send them out.

Last but not least those two large boxes in the back of the shop contain the dual exhaust from Waldron's Exhaust.

Once I get the headers coated and mounted I will spend some time with the exhaust.

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I'm curing the paint on one of the exhaust headers in our oven tonight. You can imagine who in my house hold is not pleased with that.

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Hope the Mrs. Doesn't get too upset about the manifolds in the oven.
I cleaned my headlamp buckets in the dishwasher, my wife caught me!

I was not planning to pull the spare tire well out but the rust in the rear right corner was just to hard cut out and fix with it in place. It came out pretty easy and there was no damage to the well so I should be able to fix what little rust is on it and put it back in.

I also had to cut off the "body mount" below but right next to the wheel well. It too had holes in it. I think I can fix this also.

The right rear quarter panel and tail light house are finally nearing completion.

My welding is getting better but welding new metal to pitted metal really sucks.

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Looking ahead to the exhaust assembly I think I need a new heat exchanger or heat riser (which is it).

The image shows that mine is a little warn out. That little pin used to stop the spring could snap anytime. Max has them (5.0908) so that won't be a problem but before I order one does anyone know it it can be replaced?

There isn't much left of it near the base so I would have to find a way to drive it out if it can be replaced.

I need the gasket that goes on top of it (5.09083) . I may actually have it in my gasket kit but I keep forgetting to look.

Also the flange (6.108) that goes below it. I'm not sure what that even looks like and it is not one Max's site.

Does anyone have any suggestion on that?

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Can't remember which side the flange is on -- is it inside the exhaust pipe or go on manifold side? What size is the opening and exhaust pipe? Those things have got to be getting in short supply -- at least based on price from vendors.

I wonder if a modern item would work. Summit has a two bolt item for 2" pipe that has a slightly different flange setup. It is considerably less and if the bolt spacing is close or could be made to fit it might work.