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OK, I'm not really into self-pity, but I really DO have a discouraging problem.

I've fought a leaking pinion seal for two years, and have replaced it three times. Every time I change it, it winds up leaking worse than the last time. I bought a used rear axle out of a junk yard in the fall, hoping for the best. Bad news. The transmission shop I took it to tells me today that it's going to cost me $900 (plus I have to furnish the seals) to fix it.

Sorry, but I'm not made of money! I've got a few hundred dollars saved up toward this, but there's no more blood in this turnip right now.

The current rear end whines (I can live with that if I need to), but the huge puddles of GL4 are a really big problem.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

9" Ford or 8.8" Ford.

The pinion shafts frequently wear to the point that a new seal will not stop the leak. I suggest getting the shaft sleeved or spray welded to build the shaft back to spec. Regrind it and then install a new seal. That should solve your problem. Good luck.

"I've fought a leaking pinion seal for two years, and have replaced it three times..."

WHERE are u getting the seals ??????????

2 cheap options:

1. sleeve the pinion shaft.
2. Get with a seal or bearing supplier that is local. Seals are made for this pupose assuming that there is only a groove and assuming that the surface of the shaft is not battered otherwise.
The seal is made with an offset so that the lip will ride to one side or the other of the groove that has worn into the shaft.

Such seals with an offset lip are usually supplied in modern rebuild gasket kits for various appliations and the lip is offset specifically for this reason.

Take the old seal(s), shaft if possible and numbers. GO PREPARED. Only problem is that now a days most bearing and seal specialty shops have a minimum charge. Such shops usualy carry the "shaft saver" sleeves too.

Wait a minute. is that prop shaft a third member or Hotchkiss???

The original seal is a leather seal set in a steel stamping. Do you soak the new seal in gear dope (the same oil as in the pig) before installation?
The shop manual call for this and it works. I use a margrne tub, fill it with just enough to cover the seal, about one day, or at least overnight. Then install. Do check for wear on the pinion shaft as others have suggested, that is a real problem, and they have offered excellent suggestions for remedy.

I remember this thread from this summer. First, it was the new repro seals that were suspect, now its come back to the condition of the pinion shaft. I know there is no direct replacement for the 311926, however, with all the trouble you are having, I am still wondering if a "speedi-sleeve" or whatever they are referred to locally, might not be the most cost effective route, especially if it possible to size to use a modern seal. Finally, although it obviously is getting enough lubricant, have you verified the pinion bearing is in good shape, ie.not causing the pinion shaft to wreck the new seals?

The pinion seal offered for sale by Kanters is neoprene, seems to be perfectly fine. Remember, the seal does not seal against the pinion shaft, but rather the input flange. The input flange could easily be built up, or sleeved as previously recommended. The question is, how did the sealing surface look on the flange when you removed and inspected? Is it grooved deeply? Another option, is just replace the input flange.

Another overlooked problem is oil creeping through the clearance between the splines of the pinion shaft and input flange passing oil by the washer and creating a leak. A bit of sealant under the washer can eliminate this syndrome.

As for noise, the pinion nut torque is absolutely critical. Too loose and you have problems, often a pronounced howling on deceleration. Too tight, = heat and howling at cruise (in general for both symptoms) Setting the pinion nut torque after seal replacement is more or less a feel thing. absolutely no free play end to end, and a light amount of preload felt on the bearings when turning the pinion.

Best of luck,
Jim

Quote:

This is the best advice so far, even better than my original tongue-in-cheek version! By all means, if the shaft is worn, take it to a machine shop and have them weld and regrind the shaft. You then have a new pinion, provided that the gear portion is ok.

Guys, not to create any trouble, but the pinion shaft is not the sealing surface. There would be absolutely no reason to do a thing to the pinion shaft as the input flange (called a flange when used with mechanics style u-joints, a yoke when used with Spicer u-joints) is the sealing surface. removing the pinion shaft for no reason is not the best of advice in this situation.