After another thread asked the question on how to remove a cylinder from a switch I dug out a few ignition switches I had to play with and find the answers. The cylinders are held in the switch by a spring loaded retainer clip riding in a groove in the housing. The retainer clip needs to be pushed in against the spring to release the retainer from the groove. The same cylinder was used from the mid 30s until 56.
The normal way to remove the cylinder on all 46-56 switches except the 54 is to have the key inserted and turn to the ON or RUN position. For 54 it is turned to the ACC position. That lines the cylinder retainer tab up with the hole in the case and then a heavy duty paper clip or similar small rod can be inserted in the hole and pushed in to move the clip so the cylinder can be extracted. Even on factory holes I did find a bit of variation as to how well the clips lined up so it may take a bit of wiggling or inserting the tool at an angle to press the retainer clip sufficiently to release it.
Without a key, the cylinder won't be able to turn so a hole must be carefully drilled in the housing to line up to where the retainer clip is positioned when the switch is off. Here are some photos of the various switches and locations where the holes need to be. The original holes vary in size a bit but a 3/32 size works well for the new hole. The important part is to have the depth from the front the same as the original hole. The distance away from the original hole depends on how many positions the switch has. Be very careful to only drill thru the housing and no farther. Too deep and damage to the retainer clip can occur preventing it's release. I find using a drill press gives good control.
Once the cylinder was extracted and dirt or grease cleaned off I found what I believe to be the original key numbers stamped on the cylinder. With those numbers you could order keys from Jesser or maybe a local locksmith. If you want to reuse another key then it is a matter of inserting that key and sanding or filing any of the still protruding brass tabs down so they are flush with the diecast housing. They do need to be flush and as the tabs are spring loaded the opposite end needs to be held on some tabs so they do file flush.
There are two types of switches for 46-7 Clippers and maybe earlier too. I believe the difference is Delco vs Autolite but I don't know for sure which is which. The last photo shows the differences. I don't have any prewar switches to see what needs to be done on them.
Up to a point. With the cylinder in the off position the retainer clip is not below the original hole so the drill goes all the way to the cylinder and will be a tad deeper than you want to go. When drilling the new hole the retainer clip will be directly below so you need to be very careful and sneak up on the depth.
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