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Got excited today when the restored exhaust manifold showed up. That was until I found one of the mounting ears was broken off in shipment. Bummer

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We had a similar thing happen many years ago only the manifold became so warped it was unusable. Fortunately the owner sourced the service. We got a replacement and the porcelain burned off in short order. So I painted it.

If your manifold is still straight the ear can be repaired. I don't remember the place, but they are probably retired. I was able to have a speedster fixed, an 840 fixed, and a 34 eight manifold fixed. Forget the porcelain though and make sure to check references. One place I used would scrape off metal from the actual manifold and make rod out of it to assure a proper weld.

The porcelain will hold up on the 7th series and earlier cars and to a lesser extent on the 8th and 9th series cars provided they are not driven at high speed. Once they started pushing the horsepower up the porcelain didn't last. I have pictures of brand new cars with cracked porcelain. As well, the alcohol in today's gasoline is making them run leaner so either the jetting needs to changed or the float level set higher as a patch. Don't worry about gas mileage on a Packard because the factory never did. They do better on gas than a Cadillac V-16.

Another problem is if the porcelain starts flaking off there is the danger of shards of glass being flung around the engine compartment. I wear safety glasses at all times around running engines. The other day chunks of fan started flying off a dyno engine.

Hate to Monday morning QB your shipper.. sure they have been doing this many times but, I'm not a fan of how it was done. Looks like it was bolted to the crate on the bottom and vertical wall without any rubber or buffer under the mounting to allow for flex (and getting tossed around the truck in-transit). It also assumes the box was built in-plane with the mounting surfaces. If it were my part, I would probably line the bottom and sides with a few layers of cardboard and then wrap the unit tightly with many layers of bubble wrap and then pack any voids with additional bubble wrap (to the point someone has to push down on the lid. I've shipped many motors and gearboxes in an industrial setting in a similar manner to your shipper but only bolted on the bottom and never with an irreplaceable cast part. Good luck getting resolution on that...
Mike

There was a guy in Canada that had one new in a would box..

But cant remember if was both intake and exhaust or one of the other

Starting on body stuff. Just got the headlight pods back from the media blaster. Got to love that California Sheet metal.

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I need to replace the transfer tubes that go from the timing cover to the block. I destroyed the original ones getting them out.

On the left is one I made out of 1.5" stainless tubing, the middle is out of very thin aluminum and the one on the right is the original steel.

I decided to go with the stainless as it wouldn't degrade like the aluminum one would.

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I just cut them off on a lathe. It is important to use 1.5" od TUBING as 1 1/2" pipe is larger as it goes by ID size.

Here is where they go on the cover and the block. An O ring goes over the tube between the two sections

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That's my plan to. Now I cant remember where I put it. Stainless tubing.

But my cover is pitted where 0 rings go. So I'm about ready to mix up marine tex. And fill that in as well as where pump goes.

Looks like 3/4 inch wide.. Maybe 1 inch?..

Riki,

I have been using LabMetal which is an air hardened aluminum epoxy to build up the eroded areas.

Bill

Riki,

Let me know if you need any tubing, I can send you some.

Bill