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It's a little unclear, especially with the long unbroken paragraph, to understand exactly what you're experiencing. It seems you're saying that you're losing coolant but not that you actually see it on top of the oil. If it's getting into the pan, it would show on the dipstick.

This one has really peaked my interest.

Did you check your oil after going for a drive? Was it milky, that is water and oil mixed? Or is the water migrating into the oil after the car is shut off?

And no while smoke out the tail pipe once warmed up, correct?

Could the block have a crack by one of the valve guides that opens up when the car gets warm, but doesn't show up during your pressure test? Maybe you could see evidence of water by removing your valve covers and inspecting your valve train?

BTW, I'm like Flackmaster, more armchair than mechanic. But I have been far enough into my engine (327) to have replaced valve guides, rings, coated pistons, cleaned and tested lifters, etc. etc.

Unsolved mysteries!

Yes you are correct about the long paragraph sorry. I did see water on the dipstick two different times thats why I drained the oil after letting it set overnight so the water and oil would separate. Thats when I got worried knowing what damage it could cause. When I first starting looking at your Packard forum I found " Genes post Dec 2020 " that had the same issue but that engine had set for a while after being rebuilt. Thats when I did all the testing and checks. I pulled the Intake / Exhaust manifold and found it was wet all four inlets going to the block. So based on your info I new their was a leak or crack somewhere around the seats or valve guides guessing it must be opening up when hot. Thats why I wrote to you guys asking for help as to where it could be.

Here is an illustration showing the valve guides.

The last straw before pulling the engine and tearing it down was when I drained the oil after 1 hour of running it to work in the sealer it had gray / silver color floating on the top I knew it was bearing material. I had ran Irontite ceramic motor seal that my machine shop guy said to use because he had used it in other engines with success . I started thinking that if the engine still had a water leaking into the oil this sealer was in the oil when running it. I was hoping to be wrong but could not pick up any of the floating material with a magnet so I knew it was not good coming from the engine, my guess was the sealer was causing damage to the bearings being ceramic. With all the money I had put in this engine I had no choice but to take it back apart. Would have loved to been wrong but when I pulled the first rod bearing cap I was wright my perfect 74 year old crankshaft with std. bearings now had scratches you can catch a finger nail on and will need to be turned. "this stinks " The pistons still look good at least, I can get the crankshaft turned and bearings for it but will have to take it about 2 hrs away since my engine guy only polishes the crank. But still have to find the leak in the block and hope it can be repaired. Thanks again for everyone who has responded with questions and input. I'm going back to my engine guy Tomorrow and see if we can up the air pressure and find the leak.

Oh no, this is bad news! This is not the kind of adventure we like to have with our cars.

I think pressure testing your block to try to locate a leak is a good plan, it must be small! If you do locate the leak, and can repair it, once you get your crank done you'll be off to the races.

I suspect you're getting pretty good at tearing down your engine.......

Keep us posted!

Yes to getting good at tearing it down and as for finding it and can it be repaired? I have a million dollar question , can anyone one tell me what all is water cooled in the block as for the valves and guides. We only replaced the valve guides Intake and Exhaust, I know you drive them in and out I have done this before but not on this engine. My machine shop guy said he did not think they were in the water passages but wondered if one could have caused a slight crack or caused something to break that we cant see. He told me he has seen some GM engines that the exhaust does run through water for cooling. We did find that some of the studs that hold the manifolds to the block go into water because I had taken them out and some of them starting leaking with air pressure. I hope one of the Packard guys can give me some info about this because it looks this is the only place where it could come from since the intake is wet

Thanks for the photo, is the area around and above the springs all water or just dark?

Quote:

The darkest areas at the top by the valves will be the intake and exhaust.

The darkest areas at the bottom is the open area around your lifters and springs and valve stems.

The 3 darker areas you and see in between, in the red circle, are the water jacket and you can see that the valve guides are not open themselves to the water jacket. But I believe that you're correct that some other engines, not Packard, did have valve guides that were open to the water jacket.

Quote:

I asked about your issue on the Facebook page and this was one of the comments.

"Other than the obvious, head gasket or cracks, when engine was rebuilt, was sealant put on bolts that go thru the water jacket?"

I don't know specifically which ones they're speaking about, but maybe some of the head studs?? Someone else here may be able to provide some clarity on this. That would be a simple fix, but unfortunate if something that simple was the cause of all your grief.