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I’ve got a 1932 Packard 901 Std. Eight. My radiator shutters were not functioning. Something I could live with but then the gasket around the thermostat started leaking to it had to come out.. and I figured since I had it out it was time to attempt to address the issue. The shutters move easily but stay where you position them. The rod on the thermostat will move in and out and pretty much stay where you position it. I removed it and the shutters move freely. I tested it on the stove and the rod moves outward only about 1/8-1/4” from cold to full hot. I understand the movement should be close to an inch. Based on what I’ve read I may have a later style replacement here because of the flat sides and sealed face. Is there a way to repair this? I’m thinking I need to un solder the seam where the insert is joined with the outer can. Inside will I find a bellows with alcohol in it? Or can I just drill a small hole on the inner plate here and inject the new alcohol? Has anyone here ever repaired this type? Thanks!

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Dont unsolder that seam.

First, remove the unit. Turn it in several orientation ands slowly push the shaft it and listen for "gurgling". If you see liquid or hear a noise then, of course, you have a leak...they are really hard to isolate. If you get lucky and visually see a pinhole, push in, cover the pinhole with a finger and see if it holds at that position, hinting you may have found the culprit. I had one in the reticulated bellows area and it is impossible to isolate or reach to fix so that unit is shelf art.

Then, you need to decide to become a surgeon or buy a restored/NOS unit (there are plenty of that style "out there"...I recommend talking to Mike Grimes at Max Merritt or posting a forum WANTED ad)...I have an easier style bellows on my 12 and have verified that it holds for long periods of time, so I drilled a microhole through the factory lead dot (different than yours) on that flat backside and evacuated all internals and let it dry/sit in a warm place for over a month...then I bought Methyl Alcohol (need ACS grade purity to ensure proper state transition temperatures and expansion coefficients):amazon.com/ACS-Grade-Methyl-Alcohol-500mL-Collection/dp/B07JBNFS2Y

Pre-tin the hole with a dot of solder (if one isnt on your unit) around the hole...clear open (upside down) the hole again of particles so they dont get inside.

Then you inject about half the volume with Methyl Alcohol (you may have to repeat this up/down on fill fraction to tune the cold/hot stroke, which a factory manual somewhere quoted as 9/16" peak to peak stroke).

When you have it filled, with the center shaft pushed near the bottom of its stroke in the "shutter closed" direction (look at your mechanism to determine which is open/closed). Then use a tin/lead solder WITH A SOLDERING IRON (not a torch), surround the entire Sylphon unit with a large wet rag/towel leaving the work area exposed, keep a fire extinguisher at hand, eye protection and light gloves (hard to see alcohol flames until they are upon you). Just touch the pre-tinned dot with the hole in the center until it reflows over the hole smoothly...it should be sealed

...do a thermometer test with the Sylphon in your junker soup pan (keep spousal relations at home in good standing)...mark the shaft with a thin line, then SLOWLY heat up the water and measure temp/extension (if you can) along the way just up to the boiling point (correct for your altitude...boiling point of water at my 5300' is a full 10 deg. lower than sea levels standard 212F)...mark the extended position, measure the total stroke between the end lines and if it is around 9/16", then Bob's your Uncle.

See my posting:packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... php?post_id=268490&keywords=sylphon and several threads searching on "Sylphon"...also search the general web and the AACA forum.

It may be easier to buy a rebuilt/tested unit...your call.

I hope this helps

I had the same problem on my 32 shutter thermostat and I could not find one so I decided to make one. The problem is you have pushers and pullers.
On my 32 which is a 903 Deluxe it is a pull and yours looks like a pusher which is the same as my 34, 1101. If you look at the photo with two stats the one on the left is the 32 and one on right is 34. A pullers stat the liquid is on the inside of the bellows and for a pusher the liquid is on the outside.
I tried to repair both by soldering the hole or split with no luck. I bought a 62 Corsair bellows that was used to open and close the air intake. I needed fluid on the inside because mine pulls, drilled a small hole and put about 10cc of alcohol and tapped the hole and plugged with a 4-40 bolt. Put it in water on a hot plate and didn't open until 190 degrees so opened back up and added about 4cc of ether, plugged reheated and it opened at 140 degrees, perfect, epoxied around the bolt and has been working for four year now. On your pusher stat the only difference is liquid goes on the outside of the bellows.

I could buy one for a 34 for $500+ and I have maybe $25 in it.

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Thank you both for your input. The unit I have is a later one (33 and up?) . I guess it It is a “pusher” style, in that when it heats up the rod pushes out of the center. (don’t they all push out when they heat up?) That connects to a horizontal rod that pushes on the rod that goes to the shutters which then makes them open. I hear no fluid sloshing inside of it, don’t hear much of anything when I shake. When I push on the rod it goes in slightly and then slowly comes back to resting position. I can’t find any pictures online of this style disassembled. I can purchase a new one of this style or the correct style for 595.00 from Max Merritt but the original style one has a female fitting and the one I have has a male fitting so there would be no simple way to revert back to the original style as I don’t have the original rod that threaded into the thermostat. I don’t see any dot or soldered holes or factory places where fluid could be introduced into this unit. Does the soldered-on center plate where the rod comes out form the top seal of the chamber/bellows or are they in a sealed unit under this plate? If I drilled a small hole in this inner plate and introduced the alcohol there, then sealed it up would the alcohol go where it needs to go? Dan, I clicked on your forum post you linked but it doesn’t seem to have any replies. Richard, in your photo the ’32 unit on the left looks more like mine, other than the outer flange pattern. Did you have a new outer housing fabricated? I don’t see the bellows on mine and the only way I can envision getting to them is unsoldering that inner face plate.

Richard- thank you, see reply above, Thanks

Tuskman

(don't they all push out when they heat up?) No they can expand or contract according where the liquid is.

Drill a small hole in the center staying shallow so you don’t pierce the bellows. Tap for 4-40 or 6-32 to plug with a screw.
Put in some alcohol and plug temporarily. My guess you will probably smell and see the leak, if not heat in water and the shaft should start raising.
If this works seal screw with epoxy, RTV or solder. My 34 has a spring on the shaft to keep the bellows completely open until heat is applied.
See photo;
Richard

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Thats a great idea using a Corvair thermostat. I've got to repair the one on my 1932 and it seems to have been cycled too much and keeps cracking after the repair.
What did you start with when you machined your housing for the Corvair bellows? Thanks


Dean