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« 1 (2)

Re: 1947 clutch slipping
#11
Just popping in
Just popping in

DYNOBOB
See User information
I really appreciate all the input gentlemen. I'm going to drop the inspection cover and look at things before ordering the clutch parts.

I think the bolt added to the linkage is just being used as a spacer. To my mind, as long as the fork isn't in tension against the TO bearing (with clutch out) then that shouldn't be the problem..?

Have read several posts that reference the 3/8 bolts to keep pres plate fingers depressed. Not following exactly what that looks like but may make sense once I get in there. Yes, I will mark the flywheel/pressure plate to preserve balance.

.

Posted on: Today 9:22
1947 Custom Super Clipper
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Re: 1947 clutch slipping
#12
Forum Ambassador
Forum Ambassador

HH56
See User information
This might help visualize where the nuts should be placed before unbolting the plate..

Click to see original Image in a new window


Also, in case you have not gotten that far yet, on 356 engines when you go to remove the lower half of the bellhousing to inspect the clutch, there is a 5th bolt holding the transmission that is often not mentioned in most instructions for what to remove when inspecting or servicing the clutch. That bolt threads into the bellhousing bottom half and must be removed too. It is almost dead center at the bottom of trans but may be covered with grease or dirt and can be hard to see.

Posted on: Today 9:54
Howard
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Re: 1947 clutch slipping
#13
Home away from home
Home away from home

53 Cavalier
See User information
Quote:

I think the bolt added to the linkage is just being used as a spacer. To my mind, as long as the fork isn't in tension against the TO bearing (with clutch out) then that shouldn't be the problem..?


I believe your thinking is correct.

Quote:

Have read several posts that reference the 3/8 bolts to keep pres plate fingers depressed. Not following exactly what that looks like but may make sense once I get in there. Yes, I will mark the flywheel/pressure plate to preserve balance.


You may find that the flywheel/pressure plate are already marked from a previous clutch replacement. The service manual suggests making punch marks, and not sure if this applies here, but when Ross marks the torque convertor in his video he recommends not punching, but rather scribing a couple of marks.

Click to see original Image in a new window


That extra nut that is being used for a spacer makes me wonder what they are compensating for. Something that is worn? Something that is incorrect? Maybe disk facings that are too thick so they needed extra adjustment? Maybe the release levers are not in the correct position to apply the additional pressure as per the service manual.

Click to see original Image in a new window


Click to see original Image in a new window


I don't think anyone mentioned the possibility of the flywheel being the issue, but it's possible that is needs to be machined, was maybe missed during the previous clutch repair.

When I have found issues on my car, they were often caused by a novice, or mechanic, that didn't understand what to do, maybe didn't have a service manual, or didn't use the correct parts.

Check and measure everything, you'll find the issue/s I'm sure! Once corrected you'll be able to pull a '40 holiday trailer through the mountains without issue! LOL

Keep us posted as to what you find!

Posted on: Today 10:25
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« 1 (2)




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