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Re: 1924 Single Eight 143 Oil Change Questions
#21
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Packtriots
See User information
Quote:

Karl wrote:
I had no choice to install this design instead of the oil drain plug. It's the optimal, lowest point for a dipstick. Furthermore, the components used were ideal without any rework. Regarding the "petrol tap opening"... my now notoriously poor English forces me to translate everything with the Google Translator... and there, "petrol tap opening" is translated as "petrol tap opening"... which in my language means "fuel tap." So, I don't know what "petrol tap opening" means. I only know petcocks as the eight brass taps on my engine's cylinder head.

Soldering the components with silver solder serves my goal of ensuring a "bullet-proof" connection between all parts and avoiding visually large transitions during the nickel plating process after this part is finished on my lathe.

It is certainly sufficient to use the well-known, good, oil-resistant thread sealants. And the nickel plating is simply a matter of aesthetics for me. By the way: After attaching the lower cover plates between the engine and the frame, only a piece of the standpipe and the cap are visible.

Karl


All makes sense. When I said "petcock", as pgh Ultramatic said, I'm referring to the old setup where that peacock was used to check if there is any oil at that low point in the engine. You removed yours and just plugged it. I will plan to do the same, I just need to double check that I can run my contraption up through the existing hole in the body. Your model does not have the sheet metal that runs the length of the engine bay at the bottom there as mine does. I could put a hole in it, but I'd prefer not to. Thanks again! If I get to doing this, I'll come back and post a photo of my much less visually appealing creation!

Posted on: 5/25 9:13
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Re: 1924 Single Eight 143 Oil Change Questions
#22
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Packtriots
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Hey all - I just wanted to add a couple pictures of the before situation on my vehicle. I might have to use the current "petcock" opening for the new dipstick vessel instead of the main drain plug. The reason is that I don't want to have to cut a hole in the metal. The only opening to the top is where the current "petcock lever" is located, so I figure I can just use that. The only other alternative (without cutting the metal) is to angle over to the current metal opening from the drain plug, but that seems unnecessary.

The bottom of my small auxiliary tank will become the low point of my dipstick, and the high point will be where the 8 quarts (full capacity) comes up to on the dipstick. It will probably be a month or so when I get to this project, but I'll post the results (hopefully!).

Thanks again!

Attach file:



jpg  oil1.jpg (106.44 KB)
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jpg  oil2.jpg (72.04 KB)
227415_68377b23272ff.jpg 810X1080 px

Posted on: 5/28 16:24
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Re: 1924 Single Eight 143 Oil Change Questions
#23
Quite a regular
Quite a regular

Packtriots
See User information
Hey all - Just following up on this post in case someone comes along a decade from now and wants to see how this turned out for an amateur like me. I was able to remove the old petcock setup and I used that threaded hole in the engine block to add my contraption. I used 1/4" brass lead-free piping. I have a male/female 45 degree elbow that attaches directly to the engine block hole. Attached to that is a 6" threaded tube with a cap on top. I did have to use my Dremel to buzz off a small extension to the hole in the frame that existed previously for the petcock to accommodate the new setup, but it is not at all noticeable. To check the oil level, I first filled the engine to eight quarts. Note that the manual calls for a minimum of eight quarts and to "not carry more than an additional gallon". I decided to go with nine quarts total. When I drained the old oil, I pulled out about 7 - 7 1/2 quarts, and the petcock was still shedding oil when I twisted the rod, so I guess the system is a little off (although I suppose some oil was still hiding in the engine block). Nonetheless, I noted that a small rod I inserted in the tube started registering oil at about seven quarts. I marked the level on the stick at nine quarts, so now I have a point of reference to work off. I decided not to solder the rod to the inside of the cap lid at this time. Right now it is just a separate rod, but I may solder it on in the future. Anyway, it isn't as pretty as the one Karl came up with, but I think it will get the job done. I also removed the oil filter cover, cleaned the filter (not too dirty), and cut a new gasket (which so far isn't leaking). I'm chalking this one up as a success! Thanks again for all the good advice on here!

Attach file:



jpg  top oil.jpg (115.45 KB)
227415_687d6d9272188.jpg 810X1080 px

jpg  bottom oil.jpg (135.88 KB)
227415_687d6da29eeb9.jpg 810X1080 px

Posted on: 7/20 17:29
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