Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Oh one more thing there is a short right where you said it was between the mast and the center conductor.

There's several types of connections so yours probably has the soldered wire. (Pict 1) Check the pin and if there is solder present in center, that confirms one type. The one shown here is the pressure type with no solder in pin & makes contact by being forced against mast by the bushing. (Pict 2 & 3) There is another type soldered, but wire is attached to a tab on end of pin. That type looks very similar to this and you can't tell without removing things.

Start disassembly by removing housing screws & antenna connector. After screws loose and fender chrome nut & bushing off, spray some WD40 or such on mast thru top & let it soak before pulling the housing tube off. If you have solder in pin try to remove as much as possible while waiting now that antenna connector is off. If no solder present, go ahead and remove tube. If yours is the pressure type with no solder spot on mast, then there's a different problem besides broken wire so please advise and don't go any further. (Pict 4)

When housing off, GENTLY try to remove pin from inner bushing--if it doesn't want to come don't force and break anything. The bushing is old and things fragile so just clean the remaining solder out of pin with it in place. If there is no solder in pin but a spot & wire on mast then you have the soldered tab type which now presents a difficulty as that pin will have to come out so wire can be soldered on.

Get a piece of insulated stranded wire around 22-24ga small and long enough to pass all the way from hole in pin to end of tube. (Pict 5 & 6) If the pin is still in place, it may be difficult to get the wire in the proper channel but must be done so mast doesn't break it again when going into position.

Solder onto mast and then keeping wire in line with pin gently slide the housing back into place pulling the wire along to keep slack to minimum--don't force anything and don't pull wire hard enough to stretch or break insulation.

When all back in position, trim excess wire--a couple inches extra is OK but don't leave enough so vibration could rub insulation away--and resolder to pin. Check for continuity or short again. Hopefully all will be well.

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HH: Thanks very descriptive pictures. My mast is the one on the right Jpeg 4 and it could be the pin no solder type, right? Removing the small oval attachment plate could expose where the pin is mounted and could be re attached without removing the mast? Just tell me if it is a bad idea. Removing the mast is a pain, when the car was just repainted they painted over the mast head trim and it may crack.

Afraid there is no way to work on it without removing from car and have on bench.

If yours is the one on right, then is solder type (soldering is done in the brass portion between the chrome). The plastic insulator and support bushing, pict 2 & 3, sits directly behind the oval plate hole in the housing & can probably stay in. Pin is inserted in the small hole on side and a channel lets the wire exit to mast on solder type. On pressure type, pin goes straight thru and a tab on back of pin is bent up so mast holds in position while making contact.

Mast passes thru center of bushing with solder connection just below bushing toward motor, so no access from top means only can be repaired from bottom.. As yours is shorted, wire has become disconnected from mast and is touching housing so that has to be corrected and replaced.

HH Thanks, you are right it will need to come off. I still plan to open the oval just to see if by some lucky chance the broken wire is just sticking out.