Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I am rebuilding this engine and was curious what the value would be if I were to put it on the market. Any ideas what someone would pay for a completely rebuilt 374 with a single 4?

Steve

I can't advise you to value but have to question your description of big valve heads...do you mean that you're considering installing larger valves (and seats)? If so the next question is where do you stop? Seldom does one change not require others.

And more to the point, many modifications, regardless of their actual cost, don't usually bring any more money when you sell it...often they lower the value or at the very least make for a harder sale as your market shrank by X percent.

I think the value would vary quite a bit. I sold one to a fellow enthusiast in Australia, so it was more expensive than usual because he had to pay crating, shipping and import fees. I would not disclose the price unless he said it was OK to do so.

Basically, if one needs that exact motor, then it is worth more. If all one needs is a Packard V-8 of any displacement, then less.

I also advertised a 374 core a few months ago, but no one bit. I still have it, but will probably hang on to it for some future project.

The rule of thumb for a "standard rebuild" on a Pontiac V-8 is $2000-$2500 plus core. Chebbie SBCs are cheaper, Chebbie BBCs and Fords are more expensive. The highest cost on a rebuild is oversize pistons which can vary from $400 to $1,000 depending on source and quality. Most of the other parts are more or less comparable in price with other mid-50s V-8s. Also, it seems all rebuild parts are available from the usual suspects at prices that also vary somewhat.

Craig

<p>Predictor wrote:</p>
Quote:
<p>I belive that ssaeger is referring to the fact that 1956 heads have bigger intake valves than 1955 heads. Also, they have higher compression ratio. I did this very swap on my 1955 352 Pat several years ago. I put 1956 352 heads on it rather than repair the badly pounded in exhaust seats on my 1955 heads.</p>
<p>Craig</p>

Gotcha regarding the '56 heads...was curious if he may have intended to hot rod it.

To me, number matching isn't quite so important...at least get the date code close.

You'll have better luck selling it if you spell out in detail what has been done to the engine. "Rebuilt" is a somewhat flexible term. I bought one rebuilt engine which had the used valves and seats reground, used cam, lifters, rockers, chain and oil pump. It had new pistons, rings, rods and mains.

When I sell a rebuilt engine, every wearing surface on the cam, rockers, crank, heads and block has been reground. New pistons, rings, bearings, valves, guides, exhaust hard seats, lifters, oil pump, cam retainer and spacer.

FWIW, all 374" had "big valve" heads. All '55 intake valves are 1.937" and all '56 intake valves are 2.000". All exhausts are the same 1.6875" The .063" difference on the intakes isn't really noticeable. In fact, one '56 engine I pulled down from a Golden Hawk had dropped a valve and it had been replaced with one from a '55.

Another FWIW, there isn't a large demand for rebuilt Packard V8s. I have two rebuilt 352"s on the shelf just now. They'll sell eventually, but most potential buyers seem to be really scared of the shipping costs. One guy ended up paying more locally than my sell price plus shipping. He'd never picked up a pallet at a loading dock and just couldn't get his head around the fact the shipper would drop it right into the back of his pickup truck.

thnx, jack vines

I've seen some "rebuilds" in which only the finest spray paint was used...as a added bonus they hadn't bothered removing the decades worth of accumulated grease in order to retain originality.

It's so difficult to recoup the cost of rebuilding an engine unless people know your work...a similar situation applies to selling a used but running engine which has been removed, how does the prospective buyer know that it's any good? He has to rely on the seller's skills of observation and honesty as the buyer cannot fire it up.

In cases such as this I value the engine as a core but only after barring it over by hand a couple of times and peeking inside wherever I can (a Borescope sure comes in handy here!)

yes..you are correct on the cylinder heads. The casting number on the internets technical info calls these 1956 Big Valve Heads (with the original chrome valve covers)....that is where I got that term.

As far as rebuilt goes my father has a full machine shop so this would entail an entire new rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings etc.) with bore and hone as needed, engine balanced, complete head job to include new seats, valves, springs, retainers....the works. New oil pump etc. My father works all rebuilds this way.

The engine has been torn down and is in excellent shape but we are trying to determine if it would be worth rebuilding and selling.

Thanks for all the information.

Steve

Be sure to include the PV8C oil pump adapter kit with the Melling oil pump. To do less would be a big mistake. You can buy that from Jack Vines these days. I have passed that legacy off to his capable hands.

Craig

Quote: assume you mean grinding the crankshaft undersize and cutting the rod caps and honing back to spec and fitting new pin bushings. AFAIK, new crank and rods are not available.

You'll have $2,000 in parts plus your father's machine time and labor. Getting $3,500 for a 374" long block would be top dollar and take a long time to sell. Your core, your money, your decision.

thnx, jack vines