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14. This tool, supplied with the new king pins, was used to drive out the old brass bushings from the axle bore. We sent spindle and the new set of brass bushings to a shop and had them pressed into place.

15-16. Reaming the new bushings to proper size afterwards was also done professionally. This is not difficult work if you've got the proper equipment, but not everyone has these types of tools at their disposal. here we see the bushings being reamed, and the new king pin being set into place to check for proper fit. The proper fit should allow for swivel with around five pounds of torque applied.

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17. With the bushings in place, we were ready to re-assemble. Here, all the new parts are ready to install, including new bushings pressed in place, king pins (notched where the new lock pin will hold it into place), spacers, thrust bearings, grease fittings and end caps (and replacement outer tie-rod ends).

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18. We did a "dry run" with all the new pieces. The new thrust bearing was a little taller than the old and would not allow for proper fit, and the new spacers were not properly sized either. Because the old bearing and spacers were perfectly good, we decided to reuse them. From this point forward, cleanliness is important.

NOTE: This would be a good time to install the bottom end cap before continuing with the re-assembly process.

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19. Liberally apply grease to the old thrust bearing and spacer. This holds them into place while the spindle is slid in.

20. Grease the kin pin itself before carefully tapping it into place through the axle spindle...

21. carefully aligning the notch into position with the lock-pin bore.

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22. With the notched king pin aligned perfectly, we tapped the new lock pin in securely. REMEMBER: The bore is tapered and we're driving it in opposite the way we drove it out. At this point, also tap in the new top end cap.

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23. Putting it back together is little more than putting the pieces back the same way in which they came off. Here we replace the complete brake assembly.

Before installing the wheel hub, now is a good time to repack both the inner and outer bearings.

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24. The outer bearing set came out before the drum was removed. The inner bearings need to be tapped out from the inside of the drum. The wheel bearing seal will drop out at the same time.

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25. After cleaning and checking the bearing race (the bearing contact surface pressed into the hub) for wear or burn marks (blueing of the metal) and finding them okay, we lightly tapped it, alternating from side to side, back toward the outside of the hub.

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Thoroughly clean the bearings in solvent and then blow dry with compressed air. NEVER spin the beariings with compressed air, doing so runs the risk of nicking the rollers.

27. To pack them, put a wad of appropriate high-temp axle grease in the palm of your clean hand and push the bearing through it several times, as shown. Work the grease through the bearing rollers, and continue until it oozes out the other side.

28. Drop the inner bearing back into place, narrow end of taper first.

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29. Although the original leather seals were perfectly fine (right), we opted to replace them with new ones made with modern materials.

30. Lightly tap the seal into place, alternating from side to side until flush. There is a widely available and inexpensive tool called a seal driver, which is simple to use and provides a good seal.

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