Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Quote:

I had no idea had to rebuild a Ford inline 6 when I was a teenager, but I did and it worked out just fine. Then I had no idea how to rebuild and air-cooled VW motor, but I did and it worked out just fine. Chevy small-blocks came easy after that. Then I had no idea had to rebuild a late-mode Honda inline 4, but I did and it worked out just fine. This inline 8 327 is a completely different beast now, valves in all the wrong places and all that. But what the heck, if it ever needs to be rebuilt, I think I'll just dig in.

Reading between the lines of Mr Marshall's posts I suspect he is not very mechanical.

I suggest you try removing the spark plugs and squirting oil down the holes with an oil can. Then try turning the engine over by hand. If you can turn the engine over 2 full revolutions, try the starter.

If the engine turns over I suggest you get an old gray haired or bald headed mechanic to get it running. Someone who knows about carburetors and points ignition.

If it will not turn over I suggest you STOP right there and sell the car to someone who can do it justice, if you cannot afford to have the engine rebuilt properly.

If I am correct, Gary does not have the car yet. If you are buying the one from Ross, I'm sure he will be upfront about it's condition. Did he say the motor is stuck?

Responding to post #21: I like Champion spark plugs. They work good.

Car has been stored many years, does not turn over. Will ask Ross to put spaner to it for me and check? Could also be just rust in it.
Yes he's a honest up front guy, I'm sure he will give me honest opinion about engine when out of storage.
If worst comes to worst, can reconditioned engines be bought ? Will it be less than rebuild?

Car standing for many years can get a standing seize I'm told. Yes I am not mechanical but I am sure willing to learn. Not scared to get hands dirty.

When car was stored, Ross did fill with oil I believe, so when out we will see. It's a automatic, so what other cars can engine be taken from? Again, really hoping it don't come to that.

I believe the word is "seized" not "ceased". In any event, why speculate on correctives until you know what the situation actually is. A properly rebuilt/reconditioned engine would be in the $2500 and up range, I'd imagine.

If the cylinders and crankcase were filled with oil, and the car stored indoors with the air filter on, the spark plugs in place and the hood closed, the engine should be fine. I have never heard of an engine seizing up if properly stored.

No other engine will fit the car, and no other engine will fit the transmission, besides a Packard. There is no way to fit any other kind of engine.

Well it could be done by an expert mechanic and fitter but it would cost more than fixing the engine properly, and depreciate the value of the car by thousands of pounds.

Incidentally if the cylinders were filled with oil check the dip stick before you try to start it. The oil has probably run down into the crankcase. This is good, for it kept the bearings and crankshaft floating in oil. You can leave it like that when you turn it over by hand but should drain off the excess oil before you start the engine. You have to use your judgment here, if the oil level is only 1/8" above normal don't bother but if it is filled to the brim you have to remove the excess oil.

Gary,
When you get the car check the oil level. If it is way over full you must drain some out before testing the engine. If the oil is thick and black you should change it. When the oil is verified then remove all the spark plugs. Mark the wires so you can put it back together easily. With an oil can squirt some light oil or automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder so the piston rings will be lubricated. First turn the engine with a spanner and try to turn it more than two complete revolutions. That will verify that the pistons move. If the pistons are stuck you can try pouring in a lot of penetrating oil, wait a day and try it again. You can verify the valves are not stuck by putting a thumb over each spark plug hole and see if you feel pressure in each cylinder as you rotate the crankshaft 2 turns.

Once you know the engine turns and has some compression you can spin it with the starter. Pull off the coil wire so you don't get sparks. Spin the engine with the spark plugs out long enough so you get oil pressure indicated on the gage. That will verify there is oil getting into the bearings. After all that you can put the plugs back in, hook up the coil wire and plug wires, and try to start it.

Most cars that have been sitting will have trouble delivering gasoline to the engine. The old gas will evaporate and may leave enough residue to plug up things. To start the engine I usually pull the air cleaner off the carburetor and pour in a few ounces of fresh gasoline. Then put the air filter back on so you won't start a fire. The gasoline will be sucked into the cylinders and will at least try to start the engine.

If it will not fire check for a spark. You can pull a spark plug wire and attach it to a spare spark plug. Lay the spark plug on the engine where heavy metal body of the plug is touching bare metal such as a head bolt. Crank the engine and see if there is a spark. If not you need to fix the ignition. Don't expect it to run if the ignition points are corroded. I have done a quick fix on the points by using a thin file or emery paper to clean off the corrosion. There may be other problems too.

Once you know the engine will turn and will fire you can then tune it up so it will run good. That is another story.
Good luck.

Thanks Fred. Your just great. Everything I need to know. I have noted it all down, and will follow instructions. When car arrives i will start my project thread, so everyone can see it change through each step. Etc Etc.....

Its going to be very interesting when i get started. I will try to change all Gaskets. Is changing the points a easy affair ? Could it be possible that the old spark plugs are still good, just need cleaning? Although my head tells me to just buy a new set.

There are a few other details you may need to be aware of. One is, today's gas can go bad in a year or less. Take the cap off the tank and take a whiff. If it smells like gas you are OK, if it smells like old stinky varnish Uh Oh, do not use it or it can gum up your motor so bad a safe cracker could not free it up.

If there is any doubt about the gas disconnect the fuel line under the hood at the fuel pump and attach a motor boat gas tank.

If no spark, check the points. They get a white fur on them if left too long. Clean it off with electronic contact cleaner spray, or brake kleen spray. Then drag a piece of white typing paper between the points to clean them. In severe cases you may need to drag a piece of 600 wet or dry sandpaper thru them, folded double. If you do not disturb the adjustment you should not need to readjust, as long as the motor ran when put away and the points open and close. Wipe out the inside of the distributor cap after giving it a shot of the cleaner. Do not forget to put the rotor back in.

Be careful the plug wires don't get mixed up especially #4 and5, this is very easy to do. The firing order should be printed on top of the motor.

There are other details to it. Such as, check the rad and make sure there are no mouse nests in it. This is where experience comes in. If you do not have the experience it can pay to have an old time mechanic on hand.