Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Thanks Howard, I noticed that when I went to the '56 diagram for guidance - needless to say I got even more confused.
The main reason I'm making a bit of a mountain out of this is that the car suddenly died on the owners before last and never ran again which is why it sat in a garage for 25 years. The guy I bought it from bought a lot a parts for it but never had the chance to work on it.
One of my guesses I made when I saw the Amp gauge was that someone changed polarity and the coil didn't like it. That would explain its sudden death on the freeway. I checked the coil today to see what was hooked to + or - but, as (my) luck would have it, the terminals were identified as "Bat" & "Dist" so that ended that bright idea. From what Craig says, it DOES sound like the car was switched - I'm just not sure if the job was done all the way through.
As far as the voltage regulator goes, it looks like the Senior Packards used the same basic regulator both years though the numbers are different. The FSM showed me you can't mix a Clipper Regulator with a Senior but given that the wiring diagrams weren't changed between between years to show the difference in polarity I'm not sure how far to trust them.
I guess the thing to do is what Craig and Howard suggest and turn the battery around and see if that makes the gauge work the right way.
My thanks to both of you for your help on this!

The coil could have been the source of sudden failure and some have been known to do just that when hot only to work again when cold. Reversing the polarity would not have done it by itself--the coil will work either way.

The thing about the coil polarity is efficiency is not as good when hooked up backwards because the spark wants to jump from the shell to the center electrode instead of the other way. With the shell always being cooler, and sparks more efficient when generated from a hot surface, in the case of marginal plugs or other problems the spark would not be as powerful if backwards and there could be misfires or a hard start.

Assuming you have the original coil then dist would be pos and bat would be negative terminal on yours. You could reverse if you wanted the battery the other way.

If you want to check yours, here is a link to a way.mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm If you do use the pencil method, remember graphite is a decent conductor so stay on the wood or you might get a jolt.

One further note: with the ign switch problem you found, that would also be an excellent source for the sudden quit.

Hey Howard & Craig -

As you both predicted; switching batteries solved the problem.
As to the future; even though I have a tendency to want to keep things original, on this I think I'll let it ride for two reasons. One: It's easier to drop in the battery the right way than to get under the dash and switch terminals. Two: Since I plan on keeping this car a LONG time leaving it Negative Ground will save having to explain things to AAA service people should I need a jump or should I get solid state parts like for the T-L or a hidden sound system.
As for the coil, I'm going to replace it anyway so I'll just hook the new one up accordingly. I think I will work up a notice to put by the battery that it is Negative Ground on the off chance that someone who actually knows Packards might work on it in the future.
Anyway: Howard & Craig - thank you so much for your help! My newly acquired Positive Ground comfort level I'll save for my '51.

Happy to help and glad that you can move on to the next fix.

Craig

Howard: Thank you once again for your knowledge and the coil info page!
Your thought about the coil quitting and then coming back may explain why the older owner's got it to "pop" once when the got it home.
I too have thought about the role the ignition switch could play in this - I'm ordering a new one. I beginning to think there was sort of a sudden "perfect (electrical) storm" out on that freeway in 1985. When I e-mailed the guy I bought the car from today he reminded me of how it died.
Anyway I plan to go through the electrical system first.
A side note: When I was under the dash looking at the gauge wiring I couldn't help but notice how fresh and supple all the wires were for being 55 years old. I'm starting to suspect that this car has been re-wired - perhaps prior to its sale to Matthew's Memory Lane Motors. If I'm right, the polarity was probably switched at that time.
Thanks again, guys -

Hi again group,

This afternoon I made it out to take another look at the electrical system on my '55 Patrician. Aside from the polarity issue, you may recall that the ignition switch had issues like running the starter in every position but "Off".
I figured the next item to explore was the Ballast Resistor or Coil Resistor as it's called in the FSM. According to that book the Delco Coil Resistor on a 1955 Packard Patrician should be between 1.40 to 1.65 Ohms. Mine registered at 0.00 - I even took it off the car and into the house to clean it up and it still came up with 0.00. The Ohm Meter checked out on another "known" item so it wasn't the meter. I was told that the car "died" on the freeway - I wonder how it even got there! This would explain the story I was told that the owners before last could get the engine to fire, but not run I suppose.
Depending on the weather warming up a little here the next quest will be checking the Distributor.

Quote:

Zero ohms is a dead short. However, this would not cause the ignition to quit, only run with more spark voltage until the points burnt out. I don't think that is your problem.

Craig

Jim,

Have you started a Project Blog on your'55?

It would be nice to see all your progress in one spot, rather than trying to find it all later.

I look forward to seeing your Packard come to life.

Don

Thanks Craig,

Ohms and to some degree, electricity in general is an area in which I don't have a high degree of competence. I can rebuild an engine, but the electrical side.....
From what you're saying, a peak under the distributor cap should prove interesting!

About that Coil Resistor!
I tried checking it again and this time got the correct reading - from time to time. I think I add a Coil Resistor to my shopping list. I'm hoping they don't care about polarity!?!?! The car came with a complete tune up kit that's only three years old - so the condenser should still be OK (I hope).