Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

If you're buying the repro Mk IV, it will probably come with O ring fittings. Info I've found say those are generally preferred with R134 because they're less likely to leak with the smaller gas molecules than the old flare fittings. I chose to use a bulkhead connector to penetrate the firewall because I think they look neater and, in my case also look more like the professional factory job but it does take more fittings. A grommet--either 2 singles or a dual-- and neat holes may do just as well. Just be sure there is something to protect the hose. Grommets would also help cover any jagged holes. Where will depend mostly on the unit connections. I don't think there will be much you can do for insulation without tearing your car apart. The floor has pretty thick padding which helps but the roof has almost nothing. I wouldn't attempt to put anything there unless the headliner is shot and you were going to replace it.

Insulation is a big factor. Especialy at the roof. But that would require headliner removal unless we can come up with some slick way to 'spray in" or otherwise install insulation thru the sunvisor and courtesy light holes. Headliners can be a real pain in the ass to R&R.

Floor insulation another factor from exhaust heat.

I have not tried any roof insulating yet. Stuffed some standard house wall insulation under the rear seat and inside of the body structure at the kick panels and under the carpet on the drivers side. Don;t really like using the house insulation but it was a Q&D attempt. The roof seems to be the the biggest culprit.

Watch out for glove box door clearence with any underdash or hump mount units. THere is interference on my 56 Exec with 50's Mark IV unit but not enuf to cause any troubles. I can open the glove box door and funder more cold air to the rear seat area for passengers if needed and it seems to help the front too.

I really don;t like the underdash or trans nump add on.

Depending on how much research u want to do and patience u have maybe a behind the dash or production car retro fit mite be a better choice and cheaper too on the production car retro fit.

Note that there is A LOT of room behind the dash on the passenger side of the car. Mite have to relo the radio speaker and eleminate clock but those are two very low priority items compared to AC. Especialy conveniently located AC.

AC or no AC be sure to cheque the ranko valve on the heater. If it is not closing all of gthe way it will allow hot engine coolant to circulate thru the heater cores. U can replace or rebuild the ranko valve if u want to. I just installed a common houshold plumbing valve in the heater line. Turn it off when the weather gets hot and turn it on in the fall when weather gets cold. It's just an added insurance level for me.

I have a Vintage Air unit in my 55 400. It has the Sanden compressor, etc. Vintage will send a mockup of their under dash units at a comparatively low cost. I didn't take advantage of the offer, but I should have. The glove box door swings down under the dash and hits the evaporator. Haven't decided how to compensate or possibly replace the unit. The hump is too high for adequate clearance and the attaching bolts also interfere.

I bought the pulley and mount from Nordstrom. It was, indeed, designed for the Golden Hawk. It works fine, but the clearance between the compressor and the right front fender is minimal. I sawed off the "ear" on the compressor closest to the fender for additional clearance. When I install the next one, I hope to make a wooden mockup of the mount, then have it welded up. Don't know if it will be any cheaper, but it would put the compressor nearer the center of the car.

The professional installer I bought the unit through strongly advised a healthy size alternator to handle the current draw of the unit. (You can buy direct without going through a dealer. I suspect the price is the same either way.) When you add up the demands of headlights, radio, AC fan, etc., the battery will get weak in a hurry at idle with a generator. The professional did not install the unit, incidentally. He was not familiar with Packards and would not quote a firm price, or even a ball park price. I don't hesitate to have my regular mechanic do T & M work, but not folks I just met. My mechanic does AC work, so he installed it. Did a very neat job, too.

Good luck and cool driving.

Bernardi

In 12 to 14 very hot TN. summers i've had no battery or generator problems whatsoever with my 56 Executive with AC.
The car will set an idle quite often for 15 to 20 minutes at a time. The oem Packard generator is just fine. I see no reason to do a conversion to alternator on the 55's or 56's. 6v systems MAYBE a different issue depending on a variety of circumstances.

As for fab'ing any compressor mounts i strongly recommend to mimmick the oem Packard V8 mount. I made my own. It is all streight flat steel plate cut with a hack saw. Welding required.

Or contact Jack Vines. He had some oem mounts for sale a few months ago.

The only reason i made my own is that it was 12 to 14 years ago and whenever i inquired about an oem mount at that time everyone acted like i was aking for somekind of hens teeth or something. So i got pissed off and made my own.

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Not thinking about insulating; figured to solve the problem with good, old fashioned brute force.

everyone acted like i was aking for some ind of hens teeth or something.

Amen to that.

I can understand not committing to an exact price, but if these "experts" are that knowledgeable, a ballpark estimate should be available.

It puzzles me that a/c vendors claim they can solve every problem, but have apparently never made notes on what they have done. Then they want to be paid for reinventing the wheel. The best they can do is offer pictures of cars they have allegedly air conditioned.

AAARRRGGGHHHHHHH!

If Jack Vines still has one of those mounts available with idler and spacing already figured out, getting this Sanden adapter plate from Vintage or Classic and bolting it to the mount would save a lot of trouble.

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I used an 85'ish toyota pump and mount. Just mounted the Toy mount to my oem STYLE mount and then mounted the pump to the Toy mount. That way u make one kind of universal BASE mount and then can swap or change compressors from mfg'er to mfg'er at will. The pumps are avaialble at discount LOCAL suto parts stores etc. The OEM Packard mount is very convenient for adapting other mounts/pumps.

This why i encourage u to find some production car system that is easily and readily available for parts.

The other problem is getting a condensor to fit in front of the radiator. Do NOT skimp on the condensor size !!!!!!

I've been working (off and on) trying to get a 73'ish chev/GM compressor to fit the Pack V8. Just not a high priority issue for me rite now. THose compressors are plentiful and relatively cheap. Or WERE some 4 or 5 years ago. They are the best of the best as well as the cheapest of the cheapest.