Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Any recommendations for my 37 business coup?
Type of oil
Thanks!

I use Mobil 1 in 10w30, full synthetic. I change it once per year, not because of miles but because of condensation.


Hope this helps.

A full synthetic should be good for 2 or 3 years IF you drive the car for an hour or so every 3 months or so. Synthetic oil should be good for 3 to 4000 miles. Simply changing oil will not fully protect against condensation problems. Driving the car for 20-30 miles or more from time to time will get rid of it and keep internal engine parts, including seals, well oiled and rust free. Condensation can collect in a number of places inside an engine, and draining the oil pan may not get rid of much of it. Getting the engine hot and well-ventilated by driving the car will drive off moisture and fuel condensate and prevent rust, stuck rings and valves, and seal deterioration. It will also similarly benefit the transmission and rear axle, both of which can accumulate condensation. Tires and battery will also benefit from periodic exercise, and burning off some fuel and replacing it with fresh is an added benefit. Carburetors and fuel pumps and flex lines last better if they are used at least several times a year. The entire brake system will benefit form periodic exercize.

Yes, cars die of boredom!

Thanks for all the advice.
I acquired the business coup back in the spring and l want to change the oil before winter storage.
We live up north. Not sure what kind of oil is currently in it but I prefer to stick with a conventional 30 weight detergent oil with zinc. The engine runs well, once warmed up, but like any engine from that era it huffs a bit of oil. I’m fortunate to be able to run a non ethanol high octane fuel in it. Shell Rotella seems to fit the bill but I’m not sure about the zinc or detergent aspect. Any thoughts?

I use Rotella oil 15w40 with good results in my classic cars. I have used the same oil in a diesel engine, and it runs great at 600000 miles. There is a thread somewhere, I think AACA that doesn't think Zink doesn't do any good.

I beg to differ on the condensation issue. Most of these cars have t-stats in the 160-something range and will never get the oil hot enough to boil off water. Ever!!!


I have a 2015 Ram truck with an oil temperature gauge. I have to be pounding some pretty serious pavement or it has to be mid-summer for me to be certain that the crankcase contents are well above boiling. My old Packard doesn't run anywhere near as hot as the truck.


Oil is cheap. I don't give a rip if it has 400 miles on the last change, if it's been a year, I'm changing it. So, feel free to do what you like. Besides, it's a good opportunity to inspect the underside of the business end for leaks, loose stuff et cetera.

Good Afternoon...Just my opinion...I tend to think about the same as Wat! That's been my experience, at least. Ernie in Arizona.

Speaking of operating temperature, the 6 cyl in the coup will run hot if I let it sit and idle for more than a few minutes or even in stop and go traffic. Definitely likes to be moving and have fresh air passing through the grill and side vents in the hood. Strange though,
I pulled the plugs and they were all in good shape except for carbon build up which is evidence of low speed/low rpm driving. Cleaned em up with a wire wheel, checked and re-gaped em and they were as-good as new.

The engine does not have to get above the boiling point to expel condensation. It does need to run long enough to allow moisture and fuel residue to be expelled. That's usually half an hour at the least, and an hour or more under adverse conditions, such as cold wet weather. More is better. You may find that your engine operates at well above the thermostat's nominal temperature under most conditions. Oil typically runs hotter than the coolant in normal driving. When the engine is running, oil is pumped and sprayed throughout the engine interior, and sheets of oil flow over moving parts, the interior of the engine, and back down into the pan. This action, combined with heat and the draft through the crankcase, is very effective at expelling moisture from the oil.