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No, that's across only part of the front yard. THere's 9 acres here. And if u had to mow it u'd envy apartment dwellers instead. I'm so far out on the pig paths and cowtrails of Tn. that there are places here that are not even places. It's so rugged that goats have been known to die due to falling off of loose rocky bluffs or starvation in the dry seasons.
About the only thing that land around here is good for is to keep anyone from wanting to move in or build too close.

Hmmmm. I like HH56's mould process better than my idea. But would u have to use plexiglass????? Why not a piece of wood the right thickness?????
What thickness of plexiglas did u use???

I used plexi because I already had some, and it was smooth so figured the stuff would release better. 1/8 thick which was about right for the shoulders.

For a release agent, there is product called GreenSeal. Not sure if they still make it or not. Used it back in the 70's for FINISH SURFACE fiberglass mold release. Works great. Brush it on. It's real thin and has a STRONG alcohol smell. Not sure what reaction it would have with PVC tho. I don't remeber it as being expensive.

ok. 1/8 inch it is. I was wondering about that.

Does anyone see any problem making gthe lip 1/4 instead of 1/8 inch????? I have a lot of plastic sheet here that is 1/4 inch and some that is 1/10 inch thick. All opinions welcome.

I have the 3/4 and 1/2 inch thick pvc cut from 2 inch ID and will drill the plastic and cement the rings to it tommorrow.


Lets look at the parts cataloug. Note that there is NO COWL rubber insulator specified for 55. Specified Only for 56. So that must mean that 55 used steel washers and the body mounted solid to the frame at the cowl??????

Not counting the radiator rubbers. There are only 4our DIFFERENT rubbers used on the 56 Jr sedans thru out the entire car.

Also, THe parts book calls out "inner' and 'outer' rubbers. NO inners are specified for 56 Jr. sedans HOWEVER BOTH of my 5672's have inners. 5672 is Executive on the Jr chassis.

I think the issue will be how thick is the bolt area where the shoulder will fit and how much compression can you get without making things so solid you might as well be using steel.

If the shoulder is much higher than the steel and the bushing won't compress adequately, then there might be enough slop that you'd notice it bouncing or things would feel loose on a bump or rough road. The 1/10 in might work fine because I really think the purpose is just to locate things so nothing shifts and the bolt touches the body.

If someone with a body off would measure the thickness in a spot or 2, that might give an answer as to how much is too much.

I measured the cowl mounts (on the body) today and it is 0.160 inch thick stamped steel.

BUT, go back and look at the cowl rubbers in the pic i posted yesterday. The lower rubber has a rather deep hole in it to accomodate at least a 1/4 inch. Or maybe it's just the way they deformed over the years. I don't know.

CORRECTED post: 11-03-08. I corrected above the cowl mount thickness (at the hole) from 1/10 inch to .160 inch. It's a bimetal stamping spot welded together and the lip is deceiving when measuing. So, the thickness of metal at the HOLE is .160 inch.

Yeah. That makes sense. I'll go with the 1/10 inch plastic that i already have. 1/8 if i can find some later on.

Now, all of this making me wonder about making engine mounts the same way.