Re: Exhaust manifold heat riser rebuild
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Home away from home
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Dumb question: what do I use to ream the new bushings? I have the kit, and plan on installing the new bushings along with the new shaft, because I already have them, but they are not pre-reamed for a loose fit (which makes senses since they have to be installed).
First job of this type. Do they sell adjustable reamers for this job? Obviously I don't want to use a tapered reamer. Thanks, and pardon my ignorance.
Posted on: 2016/4/2 15:42
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Exhaust manifold heat riser rebuild
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Home away from home
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Great, thanks!
Posted on: 2016/4/3 9:43
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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Re: Exhaust manifold heat riser rebuild
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Forum Ambassador
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Ken, should it be of any help to you, here's a picture of a typical adjustable reamer, this one a Chadwick 27/32 to 15/16 and available in a large range of sizes. No doubt there is one that covers the size you need but it will be expensive and perhaps only used once and you'll never need it again, thus not perhaps the best option for you. The principle used to make it adjustable is simple, the 6 blades have a tapered base and nest in tapered grooves; thus as you use the two threaded collars on each end and move the blades from one end toward the other the diameter increases or decreases as they slide in the tapered slot.
When you know what size you need, let me know, I have a reasonable assortment of small fixed-size reamers and I'd be glad to loan you one if I have it.
Posted on: 2016/4/3 11:42
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Re: Exhaust manifold heat riser rebuild
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Home away from home
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Dave, thanks as always for the tips!
I ended up getting the manifold heat riser apart - the most difficult part was drilling out the pin holding the valve flap onto the shaft, as it was seized up tight. Once I got that out, it was smooth sailing. I also found out that the weight on the end of the shaft had been cracked and brazed back together. New one is on the way. After I had everything all apart, I decided to have a machine shop install the bushings and ream them. It only set me back $20, which might be cheaper than the reamer. I decided to just have a pro do it. I don't even have a drill press, so it was easier to just have someone else do it right. Pretty easy job, really, even though I was worried about cracking the manifold.
Posted on: 2016/5/1 17:15
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1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry
1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry |
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