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Re: Pressure Blaster
#11
Home away from home
Home away from home

David Baird
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Another thing to keep in mind is to make sure you use large/multiple moisture trap(s). The more the compressor needs to run to keep up the more moisture is condensed. Moisture, as I'm sure you know, will jam the blaster.

Posted on: 2009/3/22 21:03
North Hills Packards
2 - 1949 Super Convertibles
1949 Club Sedan
1947 Custom Sedan
Completed a book on the 22nd & 23rd series cars
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Re: Pressure Blaster
#12
Just can't stay away
Just can't stay away

todd jordan rayner
See User information
that unit is a glorafied siphen system, your best bet is a proper comercial set up such as thesenortonsandblasting.com/nsbportblast.html#blastpkg
they can often be picked up used and i often suggest to people to go in on it with a few guys or club and buy a good one, cheep units are less servicable and you are continuously blasting the inside of the hose and machine. there are a lot of consumable parts. a good freash air supply system is also a must. the best bang for the buck abrasive out there is silica sand, while outlawed in many areas for blasting because it causes silicosis it is widely available at most lumberyards that deal in cement supplys as it is used for something to do with cement. bout 6 bucks for an 80lb bag.as far as air supply i run twin devilbis 5hp comercial units and it is just enough when running continuously, i suggest when you plan to blast, go down to your local rental equipment place and rent a gas or deisel powered monster compressor for the weekend. and the cheepest place to keep it contained is a poly tent, a few 2x2's a roll of heavy poly and some plywood gussets and you can have a tent that will last 6 to ten years if built proper. here are a couple pics of the smaller blaster we run on the "beach" at my place, the inside of a poly blasting/storage tent and the compressor setup which is barely enough if going all day.

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Posted on: 2009/3/31 0:11
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