Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

PV8, MrPB and HH56 - Spot-on, that's what I had, a set of 2 manual switches wired directly to the solenoids that took away the auto leveling function. Those were removed just before the cars rear end dropped. I'll follow all of your instructions to finally fix these issues that have plagued me almost since I got the car. You're all fantastic in your helping us out. Many thanks

Re: Automatic park relay.
THis is another absurdity. THink about it. IT makes no sense to have an automatic park feature whatsoever.

IIRC when i traced out the wireing for the AUTO park feature some 7 or 8 years ago the wireing for the auto-park is NOT controled by the pressure override sw on the trans. THAT MEANS that if for some reason the ign sw is turned OFF at spped then the auto park relay will try to shift the trans into PARK. NOT a good thing to do under ANY circumstance.

The aut o park park feature is strictly nonsense. OR trace out the wireing diagram for it yourself.

I have already bypassed the auto park and removed the relay. What's wierd is that a dork had cut the purple TL wire (w/7.5 amp fuse) and spliced it to the white (yellow in my early loom) auto park wire. I've since reconnected the purple wire to the solenoids buss-bar.

Be sure to FUSE the TL hot feed wire if u decide to wire it directly to a manual over ride.

Copy that..I've installed a 3-position manual TL switch from Max Merritt and have a 30 amp fuse on the red TL wire from the starter solenoid to the TL solenoids buss-bar.

RE: the auto park feature part 2:

Packard really screwed up up on the Push Button wireing and operational configuration. The way it should have been is too have the "P" button HOT UNconditionaly. That way if one were to shut off the ignition sw. BEFORE pressing "P" then "P" would still work.

THink of it just like a lever operation. The onluy difference should be that one is pushing a button insteasd of a lever.

The auto park feature is one of the worst eng'ring wet dreams i have ever seen on any thing ever manufatured and on a par with disappearing tailgates, ashtrays on ball bearings and cast iron heads on Al. blocks.

IF your push bittons should have to become inactive or unreliable then see page 2. my post about push button pod contact finger breakage:

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2115&forum=3&post_id=20233#forumpost20233


Also

https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2254&
forum=3&post_id=21843#forumpost21843

I'll return tomorrow after more trouble shooting.

I have tried to let the motor untwist the bind, but it is at a point where the motor will not move. I have given up and the only thing that I can think is to have it towed to a muffler shop and torch the short rods off. I'll have to get some replacements, are they available?

Don't torch anything! Take the load off them by carefully following step --6- 5 in 55T-12https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/STB/55T-12.pdf Just be careful when loosening the final 2 or 3 bolts that you know where your hands and everything else is. The lever will come around but if you watch the tension on bolts, should be controllable. After the load is off you can remove the assy the regular way and find out what is going on.


EDIT NOTE: Not knowing how car is suspended, if the rear end is hanging you may have to put a jack under it & raise up so the bars will be in a more normal state to completely unload them.

EDIT EDIT: STEP 5 not 6