Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Simply repacking a bearing and replacing seals, assembling everything else as it was, should not change the axle freeplay. But remember, on this type construction (as opposed to the prior Angleset) the free play isn't for each axle independently, but for both as a unit assembly. So with the far side backing plate removed, you've probably shifted the free play to the opposite side. Reassemble that side and tap the shafts to seat the opposite side races against their respective backing plates, and check again for free play - should be unchanged.

There is no torque spec for the retaining bolts, wide use of torque specs with a few exceptions was mostly an outgrowth of WW II manufacturing practices. If a postwar model used the same bolts for the same application, you could use those torque recommendations, or just tighten them securely like the mechanics of the era did.

Thanks for the info.

OK, I installed the other side and something is wrong. I don't need a dial indicator to know that the end play is way out of limits. Both backing plates are bottomed out and there's probably 1/16" (.0625) of end play. The bearing Isn't even snug to the race, ie: a good bit of radial play. Not right. A couple things I don't quite understand: does the thrust block "float" in the differential? ie: if I press one axle in, will it push thrust block toward the other side? There are 3 shims on each side, so I seems like a lot of shimming, but my understanding is that both sides may need to be shimmed if it's way out. Also, and this is strange; the one side, where there was no end play after installation, the end play varies with the rotation of the axle. Something's wrong here, and I'm at a loss. I guess I need to suspect that maybe it was improperly shimmed before I took it apart, but that's kinda like hearing hoofbeats and looking for zebras.

OK, hold the phone. I figured out my problem, but it leads to a new problem: When I went install the backing plate,I tapped the bearing race as evenly as I could with a brass hammer to get it started about 2/3 of the way, then tried to use the backing plate to pull it into place, with the shims in but without the seal retainer and oil guard in place, not wanting to put a lot of stress on the sheet metal parts until the bearing race was in it's proper place, even with the shims. Here's the trouble; instead of pulling the bearing race all the way to the shims, the backing plate cupped it, ie: bottomed out around the bolt holes and bent up instead of pulling the bearing race even with the shims. I figure maybe I had the race in there a bit crooked, and/or didn't tighten it evenly. Anyway, my backing plate ("brake support plate" I guess is the proper nomenclature) is now not flat where it mates to the axle housing flange. SO, I guess I'll hit a machine shop tomorrow and see if they can press it flat again, OR, get a new backing plate, ugh. I'm surprised that it wasn't beefy enough to complete the "press-in" because after I took it back off, a few light taps with the brass hammer seated the race and I now the end play will probably be close to spec. (Still need to find my dial indicator) If I had it to do over, I'd have seated the race, installed the backing plate, and used my slide hammer to gently tap the axle out until the race was against it. How bad did I bollux this up?

OK, thanks everybody for putting up with the lengthy stories of my troubles. Here's what it was: I didn't drive the inner seal all the way home on the first side I put together. I had some trouble with the tensioner spring popping out so I guess I chickened out on the last 1/8" and didn't check it with my dental mirror like I did on the other side. On the new seal, I think I'll stick the spring in with a little grease so it'll stay put with the impact of driving it. All should be well now. Sorry for all the rookie gibberish.