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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#71
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HH56
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Riki, I don't think there is enough tooth to turn it down. It would have to go 1/16 or maybe more and doubt if that would leave enough of the tooth to mesh with the other portion well enough. The regulator portion is bottoming out now and don't think that would change significantly with taking off the tips.

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Posted on: 2016/3/14 15:28
Howard
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#72
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R H
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h,

ok I see now, can we extend shaft?, and put spacer in? man ,,wish I had motor, ,

what does shsft look like?

Posted on: 2016/3/14 17:42
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#73
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or, can we make a longer shaft?,

Posted on: 2016/3/14 17:46
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#74
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R H
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I also can mill that gear,

Posted on: 2016/3/14 17:48
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#75
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R H
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I can make that gear wider too

Posted on: 2016/3/14 17:49
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#76
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HH56
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As mentioned, picked up a Dorman motor and have been playing around to see what could be done. Here are a few photos of the idea.

First photo is a stock motor and another with the pinion removed. The pinion is only held by a single clip.

Second photo is a stock regulator with Delco motor removed. The original motor retaining plate and rubber gaskets are reused and an adapter plate is screwed to the regulator using new screws.

Third photo is the adapter slid over the motor pinion support with square adapter end fitting the receiving portion of main worm gear.

Fourth photo is new motor installed and another view showing the new adapter in position between motor and regulator side. With the adapter inserted into existing bearing support on regulator and being supported by new motor and completely keyed into worm gear on the other end there should be no need for any securing hardware.

Fifth photo is another view of motor installed and the direction control relays that would be needed.

Sixth photo is of the parts: Mounting plate, adapter, motor and the square washer off the original pinion would be reused as a dust seal.

I did make a crude zinc casting just to prove the motor could do the job. The permanent magnet motor is surprisingly strong for its size and had no problem moving the bare regulator against the spring, With a window to balance the spring it should be strong enough to work in the car but the adapter will definitely have to be of stronger metal than zinc. Will be sending the assy down to Riki next week so he can look it over and see what can be done about making a proper adapter and mounting plate. If that works out he will install in one of his doors to see if it really works.

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Posted on: 2016/3/18 18:07
Howard
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#77
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R H
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h,

I am thinking, longer shaft,

Then use spacer,

Have you had the dorman apart?, to see shaft,?,

most likely worm is pressed on shaft, but not big deal,

will you need that plate with longer shaft?..

man,,4 hrs it took to get 1 bolt in on rear trans brace on,

trans is in, still need lower cover, and torque things up, then drive shaft, then figure out the relays again,,,,

Posted on: 2016/3/18 19:29
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#78
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HH56
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I didn't take the Dorman apart but the shaft does not turn. It supports the pinion and worm gear. Being approx 3/8" longer than the pinion the extra most likely fits into a hole in the Ford regulator so pinion can't move away from that gear. I drilled a long hole in the adapter so shaft stayed intact and adapter end slid down into the square receiver in worm gear which is actually what makes the pinion (or adapter) turn. Am thinking the shaft will support one end of adapter and the bushing in the Packard regulator supports the other so no need for anything other than the motor being in position to hold the adapter in place.

The plate does not need to be that thick for this motor. I just reused the same plate I made for the first motor which did need a thick plate. This adapter is narrow and will fit thru the Packard mounting plate so motor can be closer -- but I think plate ought to be thick enough that holes for screws to regulator can be countersunk on each side. If my theory is correct, with countersunk holes on each side a single plate could be used and just flipped over depending on side needed. Haven't proved that theory though.

Posted on: 2016/3/18 20:10
Howard
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#79
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R H
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h,

on that silver gear, will 1/16th off od, then mill it deeper, another 1/16th,

Posted on: 2016/3/19 23:02
Riki
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Re: !956 Power window electric motor
#80
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HH56
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Quote:

Riki wrote:
h,
on that silver gear, will 1/16th off od, then mill it deeper, another 1/16th,


Don't know but kind of doubt it. It will be in the box and you can see what you think when you receive the stuff. The stock 6 tooth pinion is .700 in diameter tooth tip to tip.

On a quick glance I am thinking that milling the silver gear deeper would put teeth too close to shaft hole and won't leave much for strength. I'd be concerned a tooth would break off. When the pinion abruptly stops as it does when window hits full up or down there is a lot of torque on the pinion. The zinc adapter I made lasted about twice hitting the stop on regulator before a tooth broke -- but that failure could have been due to the crudeness of casting..

Another question would be cost. Was thinking after I made the plastic piece most of it didn't need to be any particular size. It has to fit thru the hole in the Packard motor mounting plate and after that there are only 3 places it needs to be precise -- shaft into regulator bushing, pinion diameter and location, and the square end to slide into motor. I think it could be made from a single piece of 3/4 stock turned to size but will admit to not knowing how exactly the teeth would be machined. Would machining the gear separately and making an extension to use it be cheaper than making or casting a single piece? CNC would probably be inexpensive once the setup costs were taken care of.

EDIT: Here is what I was thinking of with a single piece. Quick and dirty out of 3/4 stock. How to cut the teeth and size the transition as it narrows down so as to avoid a stress point I have no firm ideas on. One good thing is the pinion can be any width. As long as the section that is in direct contact with the regulator gear is correct the rest could actually be quite wide and flow right into the 3/4 portion without problems.

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Posted on: 2016/3/20 10:29
Howard
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