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« 1 ... 80 81 82 (83) 84 85 86 »

Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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I forgot to mention that crazy nut on the bolt I drilled out. Its got a grove in in so its built into the bracket that I twisted.

I see now that there is no way I can get a standard nut on that thing and be able to tighten it down. So this nut is locked in place.

I may be able to fix the bracket but not sure about bolting it back in place without that nut.

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Posted on: 8/15 18:42
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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HH56
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I believe your emblem is the same as the 56 in which case there is a fairly bright red in the shield and the rest of the emblem would appear to be gold on a chrome base. Hard to take a good photo because the flash distorts the colors.

Maybe someone else can say if the dash emblems might be faded a bit or if they were actually all gold instead of the combination silver and gold used on other emblems.

On the nut for the track check out McMaster and do a search for press in nuts and also capture nuts. As the title said the press ins do just that while the capture nuts show one type that is in a kind of cage that might be able to be used by enlarging the damaged hole or another type that could be welded in.

Here is a photo of my emblem along with a grill emblem courtesy of the Emblemagic site. Theirs shows a very decent rendition of the gold/chrome/red combination used in many other places .

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Posted on: 8/15 19:15
Howard
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Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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Thank you Howard for the pics of the emblem above.

Turns out I don't need a new speedometer cable after all. I momentarily forgot that I have a 700r4 behind this 352. I already have a GM cable that fits both ends. Its been a couple years so I forgot about it.

What size clips/holders fit the the back side of the dash emblems in the image and where can I get them? The 1/8 clips that I have are too large.

Thanks

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Posted on: 8/16 18:38
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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I don't know if I measured the same piece you have and the size needed does vary depending on the piece. You will need to measure the piece you have to be sure of what is needed.

I measured between.082 to .090 on the studs on the piece I had so I am thinking it would require 3/32 speed nuts. If you want the flat round style like the 1/8" you show, I didn't find any 3/32. Restoration Specialties and McMaster both have the flat rectangular style. Restoration sells individually so if you only need a few that might work out to be cheaper. McMaster sells by the box and depending on width it is a box of 50 or 100.

If it takes the tubular style clip then I think the best option will be Restoration Specialties. Several of the other clip suppliers I had bookmarked are gone or do not have that size.

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Posted on: 8/16 19:09
Howard
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Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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Gerry at Packards Southwest saw my post about the rear window track and pulled one out of his stock for me. I was planning to rebuild mine but his price was right and it came with the bolt (I destroyed mine) and the built in nut that that it attaches to (rust destroyed mine). It saved me some much needed man hours.

I sent this image of those 2, 17" Packard Scripts to a well known re-chromer in Wisconsin last week. I wanted an estimate on restoring the gold on both of them. I know this is expensive to get these redone so I was expecting some sticker shock. I still was not prepared for the cost of $450 each that they responded with.

I found a pair online that had already been re-finished for $200 each. I'm not good with math but I can see a $500 savings.

Really hot and humid here in Kentucky lately so not much actual work getting done on the Packard until the weather breaks next week.

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Posted on: 8/25 18:21
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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Stewart Ballard
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1. Got that replacement, rear window rail in place.
2. Primed both front fenders.
3. Coated the inside of the front fenders with Rust-oleum track bed liner.
4. Received all the tiny slip-on type push nuts for the dash board emblems.
5. Dash board emblems are in place.
6. Pulled the blower fan (pics below) off the shelf and dissembled it. That funnel and squirrel-cage casing are not going to come apart. I have been trying for days. The fan motor is shot. Even it is in good shape the wires coming from it are entirely bare so it has to be disassembled and re-wired at the very least.
I can't find any info on that motor,fan or assembly in the service manual. Can someone tell if that is a variable speed motor? 2 or 3 speed?
How does it change speeds the wire diagram on shows a ground and power wire?

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Posted on: 9/12 18:57
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart
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HH56
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The motor is wired single speed with input voltage changed by a resistor being what changes the speed. On a 55 I believe it is two speed. One wire on the motor goes to ground, the other to the switch and speed change resistor is mounted on the end of the switch.

Posted on: 9/12 19:23
Howard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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Stewart Ballard
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Thanks again Howard

I'm wondering if this might be a suitable replacement for that motor. All the measurements in the specs are good. The only unknown is the measurement of the two bolts that hold on the flange.
This one is available on Amazon so if it does not fit I would be able to return it.

https://www.4s.com/en/ecatalog?part=35504&type=p&search=s

Posted on: 9/12 19:36
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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Stewart Ballard
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Oh yea, I know I can get an original part / fan motor from the normal suppliers but PackardInfo people have taught me to think outside the box for these things.
Beside this would be 75% less in cost for an original if it worked.

Posted on: 9/12 19:40
Stewart Ballard
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Re: Stewart's 1955 Packard 400
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I don't have an old heater assembly to check dimensions so don't know if the mounting bolts will work or if the blower housing can be modified if they need different spacing.

That is a universal permanent magnet motor so to change direction you would only need to reverse which wire is power and which is ground if the direction is wrong. One thing I would double check is the bore size of your blower wheel. Most heater wheels have a 1/4" bore for a 1/4" shaft. That motor has a 5/16 shaft which is more typically used on AC wheels.

Double check that part and then measure the spacing at the screw head centers of your old motor at the closed end of the motor. That should give a close enough measurement to see if the replacement will work. If the shaft size is wrong you would need to find a similar style motor with the correct size shaft.

Posted on: 9/12 20:03
Howard
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