Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

First: I'm not saying this is something I'm going to produce or that anyone will produce. This thread is FOR DISCUSSION ONLY.

IMO, a logical extension of the Packard T-L would be an adjustable height feature. IIRC, Caddy tried to do this with their air bag suspension. Most Lately, hydraulic and air suspensions have been retrofitted to various old vehicles as some kind of modern "UPGRADE."

Here's my idea (for discussion only):

The ride height of a 55-56 T-L is determined by the length of the front strut. I've made a mechanically adjustable one (threaded) to compensate for left-right and total height. That makes sense enough. And it works. But it is static.

WHAT IF: the front strut length adjustment was hyraulic and could be set by some external control? In theory, the T-L level would still be controlled by the normal levelizer. The front length height would be controlled by the hydraulically adjustable length of the front strut, which, through the levelizer controls the height of the vehicle.

What do you guys think of this idea?

Craig

Interesting idea, but wonder how much actual range would be available or what you were aiming for. Since most of the issues seem to be with 50 yr tired bar sag taking a toll on height, I think side-side would have to be compensated for, probably with the static adj, and then any additional factored in. How much taller could a strut go before becoming unstable or messing up the geometry?

Actually, my idea was aimed more toward emulating current adjustable height suspension.

Put it on the ground and then put it up high, ala car show vehicles.

Obviously, making the "correct" height can be done statically with the "correct" length front struts.

For this to work, you'd have to have a short, fat, (IE large diameter) hydraulic cylinder to support the weight. Something like a "pancake" type of cylinder. Pressure to operate it could be diverted from the p/s pump, should be enough pressure to do the job and keep the extra plumbing to a minimum. A small cylinder from a portapower would probably work, hook up a couple of electro-hydraulic switches and you can have it freely drain to lower, and pressure fill to lift.

On a side thought, I would have a "cup" welded into the bottom of the lower control arm to allow the car to go lower. Oh, and put the electro-hydraulic switch on the inlet side of the hose, so if the hose breaks, you don't lose all your p/s fluid, and can still limp home.

Something like this, second one down: Pancake cylinder

The more I think about this, the more I'm convinced that an air bag would last longer and be easier to install. The constant jarring from road irregularities would beat the seals out of the cylinder in nothing flat. An airbag would take a lot more pounding than a hydraulic cylinder and still do what you want, and be cheaper too.

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Here's one of those times I ZERO PCT agree with Eric.
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The seals in a hydralic cylinder being beaten: what do you think a shock absorber is? Also, we're talking about a T-L Packard being driven around, not an off road vehicle.
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Air bags: The 50s Caddys had them and they were notorious for leaks. Even if the modern ones do not leak, they would <b>add spring rate to the T-L system</b>, completely messing up the ride quality, maybe the handling.
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For the same force (approx 1,000lb), the hydraulic cylinder can be 1/10th the diameter, so installation would be easier, not harder.
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Also, I would not use a Pancake cylinder, nor try to piggy back off the existing power steering pump.
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Craig

Still curious how much range you think would be available. If the car were side/side out by say 1/2 inch & more (which are numbers some have mentioned they have) and that compensated for with a static adj, how much is left before one or both the front load arms are at the top of their travel. Aside from an extreme angle between the arm and strut or cylinder, what about hitting something in road and putting extra stress on things when so tight. Would the extra windup result in something giving way?

We need to find a pair of AIR shocks for the rear. Run the rear of the car UP with air shocks, then let the TL motor level out the car. FRONT end should go UP.

The extra "springiness" was my main concern on the air bags, but all I've been able to find on hydraulic cylinders that have enough travel to make a difference and are large enough to handle the weight, plus be small enough to physically fit into the area where the original T/L links are, are the pancake type. Running them off of the stock p/s pump just makes sense to me, as that's one less thing to buy and have go wrong, plus it'll be a cleaner installation. But you're right on the shock absorber statement, I didn't even think of that. (It was late and I was tired, so sue me!)