Packard Forum Index » General

"I could not see the pedal in your picture on my computer, so I downloaded it and increased the gamma to "blast it with some light."

Sorry about that. On mine, pictures are quite bright -- sometimes to the point I want to dim down. Guess I will have to allow for other systems and make what I think good a bit brighter.

Anyway, as mentioned, for my purposes this is good. I have basic dimensions already down. There is enough to it that anyone thinking about making something similar might want more details and some better measurements. Would be willing to order steel and do another with a few pictures and make a couple of changes if there is some demand.

I like HH56's set up. I'm not sure what powerunit/MC HH56 is using but it appears to me that the brake linkage could be used with any, or almost any modern power/mc unit that will fit in the space????

Looking at the stem that sticks out of the vacuum power unit and that connects to the rectangular block of steel i see a nut holding it to the rectangular moving block. Did the vacuum power unit come from the supplier with a threaded stem or did the stem have to be cut off a little bit and then threaded manually for this installation????

I believe the universal Bendix styles are similar in configuration and mount. Most seem to have a threaded stud as connection. These components came from different places but MPB or ABS sell complete made to order assys. Don't know if they can customize that stem or not. I cut about 1? of this one off and undoubtedly voided any warranty doing so. That plate is something still in the thinking stage as to how it can be made smaller and easier to fabricate without welding yet still have strength. No matter what the plate does, the stem will have to be shorter than comes standard to go under the floor.

The booster is a dual 7 and is approx 1" longer than the single 7 Craig used. Cylinder is also long. Length was the major problem with this mount. This assy has to be angled slightly to clear steering because of it. Originally wanted to use a dual 7?. Being shorter, it would have been easier. With the plywood mockup found a problem in a raised flange on frame directly under booster that prevents using that diameter without cutting flange. Did make the mount adjustable to allow for clearance tilting to angles needed for various lengths.

Quote:

As a point of actual experience, the single 7in booster that I used produces plenty of line pressure when used with 3.7:1 pedal ratio. Also remember that my 55 Pat has disc front brakes which, of course, are NOT self-energizing further indicting that the line pressure of the 7in booster dual MC is more than adequate to stop a Packard.

Therefore, in an actual install, one does not need to push the install envelope as much HH56 did. But, it is interesting to find out what can ultimately be fitted.

It appears that HH56's design for a bolt-on pedal leverage multiplier is the answer for those who do not want a significantly relocated pedal position. I look forward to a final fitment and test drive report.

Craig

HH56 writes:
" Cylinder is also long. Length was the major problem with this mount. This assy has to be angled slightly to clear steering because of it. Originally wanted to use a dual 7?."

Personal judgement call here but i would prefer a SINGLE line cylinder anyway. Is a single line MC available and would that help to shorten the overall length???? I think it should. Mite want to think about going with a single line cylinder instead of the tandem.

BTW, since u're using MC and power unit EACH from different sources be sure to adjust the OUTput stem length of the power unit to match the MC. Usualy 1/32 to 1/16" 'slack' or freeplay or gap between MC piston and OUTput stem of power unit.

HH56: " That plate is something still in the thinking stage as to how it can be made smaller and easier to fabricate without welding yet still have strength".

Here's an idea:

Since the entire current fabbed supporting frame appears to be triangular then obtain a some SQAURE or rectangular tubing approximately 6" square and length equal to your custom made brakets width whick looks about 10".

Cut the top WALL out of the square tubing, heat ONE lower edge of the tubing and bend the top sawed edges together forming a triangular shaped piece of tubing.

Cut a hole in one side of the triangle tube to allow the stem of the power unit to stick thru it and bolt the power unit to that same side of the tri-tube.

Cut another hole in the toe-board-slanted side of the tri-tube to allow clearence for the currently existing rectangular piece of steel that bolts to the power unit stem.

Bolt a pillow block ("Standard part") to the tri-tube to allow for the cross shaft u fabricated to be fitted.

THe only welding needed would be across the top of the trianular tube but with a little more thot we mite come up with a way to bolt it together.

The freeplay adjustment was one of the first things done, so no worries there.

The single cylinder is shorter but chose tandem because several posters do make a good case for it. 2 short additional tubes & residual valves needed but easy because of the way original plumbing was separated. If using a single cylinder, would still need valve plus a tee fitting.

The actual mount is not too bad. It is not the same size on each side so don't think a tube would be easy to do. The small flat bar attached to the booster stem is the one I am working on. It needs to allow levers to pivot so right now, it has 2 studs welded on ends to catch the short levers. Downside is width plus it has to be assembled complete if welding levers onto shaft. Am thinking of a piece of rectangular bar threaded onto the stem and a bolt on each side instead of welded studs.

T fitting already exists as OEM on the frame for single line cylinder.

I'll have to double check, but i believe all MC's modern and otherwise already have built in res valves. Maybe it was only single line cylinders. Good point tho.

V8 Existing junction block is front and stop switch only. Earlier, believe is only front. Back wheels have a tube going to junction block on rear axle but that originally attached to banjo fitting at end of cylinder which is no longer there or able to be used..