Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hi all, the 7 second delay on my torsion ride is not working. the moment the car is out of adjustment it clicks in. Is there any way to fix these delay timers or is it just buy a new one and is there any other options other than the expensive packard ones.

Thanks
bill

Does it appear your box has been opened such as different or a new fastening method like different type rivets or screws instead of old rivets at the corners holding the cover on? If it has been opened there is no telling what you will find inside. I don't believe you will be able to find anything else that will work other than a replacement Packard switch.

Hard to say if you can fix the switch yourself because it depends on what you find causing the problem. If it is one of the solid state conversions, most of the Packard guts were removed and a solid state timer was installed to work the relays. That timer could have shorted so box will need to be replaced. If a Packard original switch then something has grounded or possibly broken and you will need to see what has happened inside the box. An original switch usually doesn't work at all because one of the movable contacts has broken off or a heating element burned open so its contact doesn't operate.

The normal operation of the original box requires two sets of contacts to close for the switch and relay to activate. The lever rotates a plate containing a movable set of contacts which connects one side of the relay and at the same time a heating element on a bimetal strip to battery voltage. As the element heats, the bimetal strip bends and when it finally bends enough (the 7 seconds) it has another contact which completes the relay circuit by connecting the relay coil to ground. Relay activates, car levels, and as the car reaches level the movable contact breaks its connection to battery so relay drops out and leveler stops.

If you want to open the box and look to see what you can do, here is the original box and a 55 schematic of the entire system including the box internals.

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This is a related question but somewhat theoretical at this point. My T-L system still works, but the 7 second delay has gotten longer and lazier with the 59 years (so have I!). Now, when showing off the unique leveling capabilities at car shows, I often have to wait fifteen seconds or so before changes occur. I'll put my 200 pounds on the rear bumper, and the time it takes to react seems longer and longer. Eventually, it growls and all is well. Once I'm removed, it doesn't seem to take as long to readjust to the correct height. Still, this is one of the crowd-pleasing aspects of our T-L equipped cars and if there's something that's easily adjusted, then I'm game to try it. Conversely, since things still work (just like me), but they take a bit more patience, then I will leave it this way.

There are far more important issues that might deserve attention than this. But, since I don't remember seeing the status of the box cover fasteners (rivets, screws, etc), I'd be happy if the health of the bi-metal heating units might be somewhat rejuvenated by brightening up the external electrical contact points outside the box. Any ideas if this might be the basis for a slow reaction because impared voltage causes the elements longer to heat? My replaced NOS brake light switch seems to have solved the problem of brake lights staying on, and there are times when the T-L adjustments still take place while underway or on long hills. Leaving well-enough alone is always a fine option to have with old cars, and that appears to be one I might have with this issue.

If you have the original 55 box with the exposed screw terminals then conceivably some corrosion on the center terminal could be causing a voltage drop that would slow down the heating of the bimetal strips. If you have the 56 style box with enclosed terminals I think that would be less likely.

On both type boxes it is possible some oxidation has occurred somewhere else in the light green voltage feed wire or on the movable contacts inside the box. Any of those could be checked or addressed without too much difficulty and might give better results but I wouldn't want to bet money on an improvement.

It is hard to conceive what could have happened internally to slow things down but as far as adjustments, don't believe there is anything you can do on an original box other than possibly bending a contact or one of the movable contact limit stops so the bimetal strip didn't have to move as far. That would take some experimentation or even ruin the box if whatever was bent broke off. Not something I would recommend messing with unless it gets to the point you are thinking of replacing the box anyway.

DaveB845 Quote:

Manual over ride DPDT-center off control switch! Problem solved.

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Not a bad idea but if you do add the switch be sure and follow Packards instructions so the limit switches are in the circuit. If you go with a regular DT center off toggle type switch it will not simultaneously disconnect the control box as Packards switch does. You will have to be sure and remember to turn the regular TL on/off switch to off when using the manual switch. That is not a bad idea even with the Packard switch because it allows you to stop the car at a certain spot instead of going limit to limit as Packard designed it. On the DP switch, if you forget then as soon as you manually move the car the automatic will come in and try to move it back. That results in both directions powered at once and in effect a direct short across the motor.

If you are interested in a manual switch, Max has the Packard switch or the full kit including the wiring. Installing the kit on a 55 would require a different terminal to connect to the 55 box but not a big deal.

As usual Howard, your admonitions are spot on. However, since I'm the only one who ever activates my T-L DPDT switch and I know what I'm doing, I have the "simple" set up. I never had a problem in 16 years. But, to make it "idiot proof", then do it your way.

Craig

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Are you using both sides of the DPDT or using one side and duplicating the Packard switch by paralleling and grounding the up/dn solenoid commands out of the control box. If both or you are able to not bother with turning off the system I'd be interested in seeing your circuit.

HH,
Is that an inside picture of a 55 or 56 box?

Is the 55 and 56 inside the same?

That one is a 56. The boxes are schematically, functionally and I think even component wise identical inside. The difference is on the bottom plate where the terminals exit. The busses and layout was relocated slightly to accommodate the three 56 push on terminals plus the two additional double tie point terminals for the limit switch change. Those were all located closer together inside the weathertight enclosure instead of having only the three bare screw terminals exiting on the 55 box.