Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

56 400 wants to run, but quits, with starter switch in on spot, \\

lifters, was my other problem,,,

thanks,,,, wiring is right, no blown fuse,, ballast ,,changed, ,,

could it be starter?,,

oh,,short pipes,,SOUNDS GREAT<<<<<<<<

Not sure if you are running stock ign but if so, verify the ballast resistor is not damaged or burned open and is the right value. Even though changed it can still have been damaged. You can check by verifying there is 12v on the yellow wire coming from ign switch when it is in the on or run position and that there is also some voltage -- can't remember exact number but if between 6 and 9v should be OK -- on the pink wire after it passes thru the resistor. Also wiggle the key when on with meter connected and verify all is good.

When the solenoid bypasses the resistor when starter operates, voltage is fed directly to coil via the green wire and engine can start. As soon as ign switch is released back to on position that solenoid voltage drops out and coil voltage is dependent on the voltage fed from the coil ign switch terminal via yellow wire. If that disappears engine quits.

There have been reports of the ign switch failing or being very temperamental in making reliable contact at the coil feed terminal when in the run position so another possibility.

If you are running a different ign then no suggestions other than make sure the voltage is present to the module from wherever it gets power.

hI. HH.

Voltage at yellow, wire, key on, did not check it on other side like that,

would the finger on the solenoid cause it?,, i was going to check it, before putting the starter in, but the starter was rebuilt not long before the car went down

thanks hh,,

stock ignition

If it is the proper solenoid the contact that feeds that circuit is all by itself. Not connected to anything else and is only active when the solenoid is energized. As the solenoid contact or plate shorts between the BAT to MOTOR connection it also touches the contact finger of the COIL terminal to supply 12v battery voltage out. As soon as solenoid quits, plate retracts, connection is broken and contact sits alone again -- although it would still read a lower voltage which is now coming thru the ballast resistor but not doing anything at the solenoid.

thanks hh,,

hh,

6 volts across ballast

It should be OK but I am trying to remember what someone else measured. I think it was JW on his 55. IIRC, there was a resistor failure and when it was replaced the voltage was a bit higher than that. Hopefully he or the poster with the issue will see and verify. I would do it on mine but the hood is being used as a shelf at the moment and would take a hour of moving things before I could open it.

One thing you could do just to see if the resistor is the issue is TEMPORARILY jumper around the resistor. In other words coil would have 12v all the time. Just do that long enough to see if it starts and stays running for a few seconds. Too long at that high voltage will damage the points and overheat the coil.

thanks hh,,

i have a nos ign, switch, i think i will put it in, to see if that is the problem,,

thanks,,,,,,,,

ps,,wonder if a capacitor across ballast?,, let it blow,,

hh,

page 20, of electrical, tells what to check,,i was looking for how to remove key tumbler from ign switch

IIRC, Key has to be in cylinder and in off position. On the left side of neck is a small hole. Use a heavy paper clip or some kind of pin punch and push in slightly. You should feel resistance against a spring loaded tab. You may have to play with it a bit but once lined up you should feel tab move in against the spring. Once the spring gives a bit keep pressure on and start turning and pulling out on cylinder at same time. I don't remember the direction but think it is CW to turn. You will rotate the locking tab to a position where it can allow the cylinder to pull out.